How to have an incredible week in Switzerland!
It was difficult enough to narrow this itinerary down, let alone to pick from it! Let’s hope you don’t spend that one week grappling with your mind as to where you should go. Hopefully this list should help ease the process! There is always the option to stay for another week!
DAY 1. CHOOSE A CITY: LUCERNE OR BERN
Both cities are pocket-sized examples of what Switzerland has to offer. Lucerne is a lakeside city, whereas Bern, the capital of Switzerland, sits in the middle of a large river meander! You may be thinking well, that makes a choice easy! However, Bern is higher up in the alps, so you get more dramatic mountain views….I’m not making it simpler am I?! Ok I will give you a mini guide to both, and then it’s on you guys! :p
#1 The Chapel Bridge (above) is the first attraction most tourists rush to! Even without those flower boxes and Rapunzel-Esque tower, this wooden footbridge is a fairytale attraction. The bridge zigzags across the river, connecting the new town to the medieval citadel. If the chance to cross Europe’s oldest covered footbridge thrills you, Lucerne is the city for you! I know a footbridge alone isn’t going to decide it for you (even if I tell you it’s covered in fairy lights at night!), so here are a few more treats only available in Lucerne…
Lucerne is the perfect gateway for exploring central Switzerland! You needn’t walk far for breathtaking views. Simply hiking up to Mount Pilatus or Rigi for an aerial view of the lake city in the valley below is enough to make you fall in love with Switzerland! Fronalpstock just above the village of Stoos is a favourite of mine for clear views of the valley!
Lucerne’s other key attraction is the Musegg Wall, the medieval city wall, piercing the city skyline with its nine storybook towers.
#2 Bern, the capital of Switzerland, might not sit on the shores of a lake but it is woven together by the crystal waters of the Aare River. One of Bern’s numerous claims to fame, other than Einstein’s house, is its quirky water fountains! One of the fountains shows an Ogre eating a baby, whilst a sack of three more babies try to escape from the sack slung over his shoulder! I guess we all know how mothers in Bern make sure their kids behave! Haha
Another treat awaiting you in Bern is the Kornhaus underground restaurant and beerhall! It may be hard to imagine, but the Kornhaus is lauded as Bern’s ‘most luxurious cellar restaurant’, in all its Baroque glory!
If you would rather stay above ground, wind your way up to the beautiful Rose Garden overhanging the old town, or the Bern Minster to photograph the city’s fairytale skyline and the mountains beyond!
DAY 2. CHOOSE A LAKE: OESCHINEN OR CAUMASEE
These two lakes are very different. Oeschinen is definitely the heart-stopper, whereas Caumsee is better for spending a sunny afternoon sleeping by or swimming in the lake. Depending on your plans for the rest the week, you may need a day relaxing at the lakeside rather than incorporating a hike.
#1 Oeschinen is a breathtaking lake fed by Alpine streams tumbling down the mountainside. Whilst the lake is in constant competition with the views surrounding its lapping edges, there is no need to choose between the two if you take the Panorama Hike! The hike to Obergli and Unterbergli could be the highlight of your week in Switzerland! The trail takes you around the lake, past overly curious alpine cows and might even make you cling to the rock at some points! This is sure to be a rewarding hike that you will never forget!
#2 If you are after a more relaxing day or a few hours by the lakeside then Caumsee is a good choice, especially for photographers. Caumsee, or ‘Lag La Cauma’, translates in Romansch as ‘Lake Siesta’. This is exactly what it will inspire you to do, that is if you’re not already jumping off the rocky outcrops, or swimming to the island in the middle of the lake! Unfortunately, this is Switzerland, so this lake can be on the pricey side, with an entrance fee of CHF 12 per adult! However, if you are planning on spending a long afternoon here, that’s not too bad considering the raw natural beauty you are immersed in!
DAY 3. CHOOSE A WATERFALL: GIESSBACH, FOROGLIO OR ENGSTLIGEN FALLS
#1 I was initially drawn to this waterfall because of the mansion of a hotel sitting in front of it! It also helps that this epic waterfall tumbles down through 14 separate cascades! On top of that, it turns out you can stay at the hotel for less than €160 a night! Far cheaper than I expected, considering the hotel’s reputation and that it’s Switzerland! ANYWAY….THE WATERFALL!! The distance to the top of the waterfall trail is only 1km, not long enough for a day trip, but along the path, you encounter a series of iron bridges which take you under the lip of the enormous cascades! It is an easy hike, but memorable!
#2 Maggiatal waterfall in Foroglio, Ticino! It’s in Ticino, need I say more! This secret waterfall is just as magical as the village hiding it! You can find both in one of the remotest valleys in the Ticino Canton. Foroglio is a handful of stone houses with basic amenities (no electricity), the only shop sells handmade woollen clothes, fur rugs and honey! Someone needs to illustrate a children’s storybook based on this area! Personally, I would love to rent an Air BnB here, or do a homestay!
Not only can you visit this unique village and 100ft waterfall, but you can carry on exploring the valley floor from the head of the waterfall trail for incredible views, away from most tourists!
#3 It’s a shame I couldn’t find a better photo of the Engstligenalp Falls, as they are the most dramatic of the three options! But let me reassure you of their greatness…Not only do you meet them across a field of Alpine flowers, if you go in spring you will also be met by the thunderous roar of snowmelt water throwing itself over a 600ft drop as you stand below (at a safe distance) feeling the spray on your skin! There are two parts to the falls, so don’t shy from making this into a day trek!
DAY 4. CHOOSE A TOWN: LAUTERBRUNNEN OR LAVERTEZZO
#1 You may be questioning why I missed ‘The Valley of 72 Waterfalls’ from the best waterfall options. That is because Lauterbrunnen is at the heart of that valley and deserved a mention of its own! Lauterbrunnen is the perfect Swiss village, a waterfall even cascades directly into the town! There are also great half-day trips to be made from here, including a visit to Trummelbach Falls. A canyon of cascades burrowing into the rock, all viewed from suitably perilous walkways!
For an incredible view of Lauterbrunnen and The Valley of 72 Waterfalls, I suggest hiking out of the valley towards the village of Wengwald. From here you can feast your eyes on the valley floor (as seen in the photo below) as it falls away beneath your feet, at over 400m in some places! If that isn’t close enough for you, there is the opportunity to paraglide over the valley!
#2 Everywhere in Ticino is breathtakingly romantic, however, I would recommend that you don’t forget Lavertezzo in particular. The dramatic rock formations hunched along the river which are beautiful to photograph and make perfect rock pools to cool off in. You will most likely see local children jumping into the river (narrowly missing the rocks) from the double-arched bridge, which is the other highlight of this little town. The Verzasca river flowing through Lavertezzo is a 30km stretch of river that flows into Lake Maggiore through water-carved canyons. Once you have explored Lavertezzo, I highly recommend visiting the other little villages dotting the hills or following the journey of the Verzasca river!
Once again, I must thank Instagram for making me aware of this little gem, otherwise, I might never have heard of it without extensive research! This little village came to fame in 2017 after a video of tourists jumping in the rock pools went viral! Since then, Lavertezzo and the surrounding villages have been swamped with visitors. Whilst many are respectful, some locals have complained of visitors using the valley as a campsite and outdoor toilet, as well as streaking down the streets of their until recently quiet town. Lavertezzo’s neighbouring village has even considered imposing a €5 fine for people taking photos. I’m not sure whether that’s fair or if that could even be enforced, but just thought it was interesting to understand the impact Instagrammers have had on these little towns.
As always just be respectful of the people who live in places like this and remember this is their daily lives and they don’t see the village the same way tourists do.
DAY 5. CHOOSE A HIKE: APPENZELL REGION OR HARDERGRAT RIDGE TRAIL
#1 As soon as I saw this photo of the Aescher restaurant tucked into the cliff I wanted to go there. I hadn’t even considered that the hike might be just as beautiful! Of course, it is! To reach this 170-year-old restaurant/viewing station you have to hike (or take the 10 min cable car!) through the gorgeous Appenzell region, with the added treat of passing Sealpsee lake. Once you start ascending the cliff, you walk up a series of carved steps and wooden footbridges careering you around the cliff face! It all adds to the wait! Until 2014 the spot was largely unknown. Then suddenly it was featured by National Geographic, as part of their ‘Destinations of a Lifetime’ special edition. Since then, it has been struggling to cope with the number of visitors! The restaurant has only basic amenities and little can be done to improve the infrastructure, as it’s built into a rockface protected for its archaeological significance! I hope I can visit before anything changes!
#2 It may not look like it from this photo, but this ridge trail gets posted on Instagram a lot! You know, the one with a girl being videoed as she runs along the ridge top, seemingly balancing on nothing but mist! The Hardergrat Ridge Trail is not for the faint of heart and should not be attempted in wet conditions. For most of the trail, there is a 1500m drop on either side of your feet! You are walking on a knife-edge for more than half of the 36km trail, so don’t suddenly decide this is the day you are trying ridge running for the first time!! Saying that, if you are careful, this trail can be exhilarating and opens on to jaw-dropping views across Interlaken lake! Certain trails can take 10 hours, so go prepared!
DAY 6. CHOOSE A TOWN: MORCOTE, STEIN AM RHEIN OR CORIPPO
#1 Stein Am Rhein has some of the most elaborate and beautiful facade paintings that I have ever come across! It also strongly reminds me of my time living in Bavaria! It’s actually very close to Bavaria as it is just on the other side of Lake Constance, bordered by Germany, Switzerland and Lichtenstein!
It’s hard to describe this town as it’s almost too perfect! Anyone who loves chocolate-box, half-timbered houses, decorative facades, balcony window boxes (typical of this region of Europe – Northern Italy, Austria, Bavaria) and cobble-stoned streets will be in heaven here! The narrow streets surrounding the main square even have their original shop signs overhanging the walkways, adding to the charm and making it feel like a scene from Chitty Chitty Bang Bang or Diagon Alley!
If you can tear yourself away from the town centre, go for a walk along the river to Werd Islands floating just downstream of the bridge to town.
#2 Once a fishing village, Morcote is one of the better-known villages edging Lake Lugano in the Ticino region. There are smaller lakeside villages, less developed such as Giardia but Morcote has something about it that the others don’t! Leading from the water’s edge, zigzagging stone pathways dotted with frescoes of saints take you up the hill towards the church and the terraced cemetery. Beside the chapel is a park flowering with sub-tropical plants and lined with Palm and Cyprus trees! From here you can lean on an overhanging balcony and take in the sunset over Lake Lugano, with the smell of sweet flowers in the air. Needless to say, in 2016 Morcote was voted Switzerland’s most beautiful village!
#3 Corippo, unlike the two previous villages, is quietly beautiful, resting in the mountain valley just above Lavertezzo. Currently, the village is home to only 13 residents and there may be plans to consolidate the houses into some sort of disjointed hotel! I hope very much that this doesn’t happen, as the undeveloped nature of the village is where its charm lies! Surprisingly, the Swiss tourism board doesn’t mention this on its website, so maybe there is hope yet! It mentions Corippo only in passing, as a great place for base jumping and canyoning!
It seems the call for a hotel has come from the villagers, who feel this will save Corippo from becoming a ghost town. I hope this is not the only answer to the problem and intend to visit as soon as I can to find out more! So far the village has raised €2 million! With plans to start development this year (2020)! However, as we all know, Coronavirus has other plans!
As it is now, the village is made up of 70 stone cottages that have been in this mountain valley since the 1800s! One of which is an Air BnB! (https://www.airbnb.co.uk/s/Corippo–Switzerland)
DAY 7. CHOOSE A HIKE: SAXER LÜCKE OR MATTERHORN
The dreamy Saxer Lücke is always popping up on my Instagram feed to taunt me! This mountain ridge brings to mind the spine of a dinosaur bursting from the rock! It can either be a 16km hike or a 3km one if you get the cable car up! From these dizzying heights, you can see over into Austrian Tirol and Lichtenstein! This is also a great chance to include Hoher Kasten in your hike if you didn’t opt for the restaurant hike in the Appenzell region on day 5! If you can, I highly recommend staying overnight at one of the mountain lodges to catch the sunrise over the ridgeline! You might as well make the most of that pricey cable car ticket or new leg muscles!
Interesting or not? Saxer Lücke actually translates as Swiss Gap because of the gap this geological formation causes in the ridge line.
#2 The Matterhorn, more affectionately known as ‘Toblerone mountain’, is the most iconic landscape in Switzerland! Hiking from Zermatt to climb the Matterhorn requires great physical endurance! If like me, you love the view of the Matterhorn but don’t want to start clambering up its glacial valleys and into the mist, then the Five Lakes Trail is a great option, especially for photographers. The still waters of Stellisee lake (below) mirror the Matterhorn’s peak (2 of the other lakes have reflections of the peak as well)!! The trail is best started from Sunnegga station and covers about 6-8 miles. Alternatively, you can skip the other four lakes and take a short 20-minute walk to Stellisee from Blauherd Station.
If you have time, I also recommend visiting the mountain village of Furi while you are near the Matterhorn. Furi is the original Matterhorn settlement before Zermatt developed! Plus it’s an easy 1-hour hike from Zermatt!
EXTRAS IF YOU HAVE TIME: BERNINA EXPRESS TRAIN, BELVEDERE CAFE OR TOBOGGAN SLIDE?
#1 Want to go for a ride on the highest scenic train route in the alps? The Bernina Express train follows a single-track route that starts in the famous resort town of St. Moritz before it descends the glacial slopes and travels into Italy. The journey lasts 4 hours and tickets start at around €140.
There are less expensive local trains that cover the same route, but they can’t offer the panoramic windows of the Bernina Express and you would have to switch trains a few times to see the entire route.
#2 The Belvedere Hotel has been popping up a lot on Instagram in the last few years. It sits atop the impressive and exhilarating Furka Pass, a steep winding mountain road that cameoed in the Bond film Goldfinger! Sadly the photogenic hotel has been closed indefinitely, as the Rhone Glacier, which the hotel sat at the tongue of, has receded so much it’s no longer the attraction it was. I wonder if it will ever host parties again? Apparently, Sean Connery used to come to parties here!!
#3 Switzerland has numerous Toboggan Slides for the summer months, when its not possible to ski! Some of the best include Churwalden, Fräkigaudi and Mount Pilatus!
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Loving the post and the super helpful map, lots of inspiration for when we are able to travel again 🙂
Thanks! I’m so ready to travel again! Haha