HAVE YOU MISSED SINTRA’S OLD TOWN?

| How to get there

I left from Rossio Train Station in Lisbon’s city centre, where you can catch a train directly to Sintra every 30 minutes (on week days). The journey takes about 40 minutes, with little to see from the window as you pass Lisbon’s industrial outskirts. Single tickets, for those of you not returning to Lisbon, cost just €2.30. Get to the station as early as you can to beat the group tours. The train station is a five minute walk from the centre of town, but right next to the bus stop that will take you to the castles.

| How to get around Sintra

It’s very easy to get around Sintra. The old town is easily walkable and there are a fleet of regular buses that take visitors up to the castles. There are also tuktuks all over the place for hire, but they can get pricey if you’re not in a group.

| SAVE A FEW DAYS FOR SINTRA

If you really want to enjoy Sintra, I cannot stress enough how important it is to book a few nights there, and NOT visit as a day trip!

The reason being, so many people flock to Sintra from Lisbon every day, that the only way to comfortably get ahead of the crowds is to start your day early from Sintra. The evidence is clear, arriving as little as 30 minutes early to Pena Palace can make the difference between just walking in, and queuing for 2 hours (no exaggeration). It also means you can enjoy gazing up at the castles in the evening from your room or cafe table, as the lights turn on and all the tourists have left.

*mini rant over*

| OLD TOWN CENTRE

Though the historic center of Sintra is small and can be explored in an hour by foot, I would recommend taking your time to enjoy all the small quirks and views. My favourite spots were:

Ferraria Miradouro

The miradouro can be found down an alleyway off of Rua Ferraria which presents you with views out over Sintra’s old town. If you peek through the archway to Sintra Terrace (a tapas restaurant on the left) you can turn to get a snap of the National Palace of Sintra over the rooftops.

The second time I came here, later in the evening, opposite the entrance to the miradouro is a tiny cat house for homeless cats. People donate cat food and water for Sintra’s street cats. There is also a donation pot to help fund the cats’ care.

Arco do Terreirinho Shops

The little gift shops along the teeming passageways just off Rua Ferraria are very sweet. The shops are a little kitsch and very touristy, but the street itself was very cute.

Rua Volta do Duche

Rua Volta do Duche is the road that links the historic centre to the rest of Sintra. Starting at the train station, you can follow the road straight to the old town square in about 10 minutes. Take your time, as there is lots to see along this short stretch of pavement. Starting with the Queijadas da Sapa cheesecake cafe, which has been baking since 1975, selling cheesecake to whomever got off the train at Sintra. Now cheesecake in hand, you can continue your walk as the pavement curves around the walled fringes of the park.

Every few metres passing craft stalls and art installations, such as a giant metal throne, the falling man or a dolphin carving. You will also start getting sneak peeks of the National Palace of Sintra through the trees. Be sure to stop at the Fonte Mourisca tiled fountain on the other side of the road before getting into town.

This road is also a good spot to come back to in the evening, as the hill sides start to light up in the distance.

Sintra National Palace

I didn’t go in the palace, but I did enjoy the views from beneath its archways, and spent a good afternoon sitting on the balcony, watching the world go by and staring at the castles above.

Jardim Correnteza Miradouro

Just a small walk down from the train station is a much quieter miradouro known as Jardim Correnteza. The vines and flowers hanging from the trellises perfectly frame the view of the town. I would never have seen this spot, if it wasn’t for the hostel I stayed in on the first night (Five House Hostel). Another good spot for seeing the Castelo dos Mouros at night.

There Are Always More Places To Find…

| WHERE TO STAY

I stayed in two hostels in Sintra even though I only stayed 4 nights in total. This was because I wanted to leave Lisbon a day earlier and the hostel I had booked for the other nights (Moon Hill) was already full. I’m so glad it was, as the first one I stayed in (Five House Hostel) was my favourite by far!

Five House Hostel

€21.30 per night (mixed dorm) – 8 minute walk from train station

Five House hostel is more of a communal AirBnB vibe as it’s in a house. The couple who own it don’t live there, but they have made it very homely. They visit each morning with their 2 gorgeous dogs to make the generous breakfast buffet. The walls are dedicated to their passion for film photography and travel, two passions close to my heart. There are two private bedrooms downstairs with a large shared bathroom and 2 attic rooms upstairs, with three beds either side, and a shared bathroom in the middle. I stayed in the attic room and could see the Moorish Castle from my bed! The attic rooms were cosy and stayed cool all day. The patio at the back of the house also had a view of the castle. All in all a great stay!

Moon Hill Hostel

€21.30 per night (mixed dorm) – 4 minute walk from train station

Moon Hill Hostel was about 10 minutes closer to the center of town. The staff were all friendly and helpful, but it very much felt like staying in a premier inn, as the hostel was rather large and the rooms were small. My biggest complaint would be that the showers in the shared bathrooms didn’t have a lock. Other than that nothing was wrong. The buffet breakfast was generous and was served in the kitchen, which has a balcony patio over the main courtyard. I enjoyed sitting out there in the evenings to research where to go the next day. Though I wouldn’t stay at the hostel again, I did like the view it gave me from the valley.

| WHERE TO EAT

I had worried about finding veggie food in such a small town, especially in a country that seems fuelled by chorizo and sardines! I needn’t have worried. I had three really nice experiences eating out in Sintra, and would go back to each of them.

Raiz Sintra

Homemade organic food, craft beer, wine and cocktails on a funky terrace scattered with large pot plants and cosy alcoves under an umbrella. Great selection of vegan and vegetarian dishes. The restaurant looks out over the valley towards Sintra National Palace, and plays live music in the evenings. I had the scrummy chilli beetroot burger with guacamole and sweet potato fries. (I would not have chosen the plate, but don’t let that take away from the delicious food.)

Villa Craft Beer and Bread

I saw leaflets for this place in town, and walked 1 minute down the hill from the town square and grabbed a place on their balcony. It’s just hidden enough to make you feel like a local and a little smug for having found it. I’m not a big beer drinker, but I really enjoyed my half pint, especially as I washed it down with a sourdough pizza covered in mushrooms, caramelised red onions, peppers, olives and goats cheese in the bar’s very own pizza oven. (cash only!)

Casa das Minas

This was such a gem. I’m so glad I found it. The first night I was searching for restaurants with vegetarian dishes and this came up. When I arrived, I found out they were cash only and were nearly finished serving. I came back the second day with cash to have a well earned lunch after visiting 2 of the palaces and sat on the terrace to sketch. The waiter who served me, kindly told me I was in the right place, as the cafe also doubled as an art school. It was such a magical setting, with a kind welcome, I fell in love completely.