A SOLO TRAVELLER’S GUIDE TO METEORA & ITS MONASTERIES

| Where Is Meteora?

Meteora is in the centre of mainland Greece, 350km north of Athens. No it’s not on one of the islands.

Meteora refers to the valley of stone pillars in the region of Thessaly. The area covers little more than seven square kilometres.

| A Little History

Meteora was once a seabed of sandstone pillars on the ocean floor. Over thousands of years the earth rose to reveal the jaw dropping monoliths we see today.

Meteora has been a UNESCO protected site since 1988 despite having been made accessible since the 1920s. Meteora as we now know it started with individual religious hermits living alone in the caves of the great pillars. They battled the elements in exclusion, relying on donations of food and wood from the locals. Eventually, a monk known as Nilos encouraged the hermits to join together and meet regularly at Doupiani Chapel (still there today) and brought rules and order into their lives.

Two-hundred years later, a monk known as Athanasios triumphantly climbed the second highest rock of Meteora and began building the Great Meteoron Monastery. He had fled from the Ottoman soldiers raiding Mount Athos in the North, still known today as the centre of Eastern Orthodox Monasticism. He brought with him a strand of Orthodox monasticism which is still practiced in Meteora today. He was also the person who gave Meteora its name. He christened the rock he climbed and it soon became the name for the entire valley. The name Meteora means ‘suspended in air’.

By the time another two-hundred years had passed, a total of twenty-four monasteries had been established. They would survive ottoman invasions and even WW2 bombings before their decline began and left us with the remaining six we see standing today.

During attacks the monks and nuns would retract the rope ladders or destroy the scaffolding to prevent any invaders climbing the rocks.

| When To Go

The best time of year to go is in the shoulder seasons of spring and autumn. Not only are there fewer crowds and cooler temperatures, but the trees nestled in the valley come alive with colour at these times of year. Some people choose to visit in Winter and see Meteora beneath a blanket of snow, but I find it most beautiful in colour.

Regardless of the month of your visit, you should plan your days around the monasteries’ opening times.

| How To Get There

You may want to see Meteora, but the town you’re aiming for is Kalambaka. Kalambaka is at the foot of the rock pillars and monasteries which are known as Meteora. Most visitors stay here or in the neighbouring village of Kastraki. Kastraki is more residential and quiet, whilst Kalambaka has a bit of nightlife and is a good place for solo travellers to find people to hang out with.

Using public transport, the best way to get to Meteora is by express train. Catch the 884 train departing from Athens in the morning (departs at 7.20am and arrives at Kalambaka at 11.30am). To return to Athens, take the 885 train (it leaves at 5.15pm and arrives in Athens at 9.25pm). There are other trains, but they are not direct. A one way ticket costs roughly €30. Another option is to get the train from Thessaloniki in the North, but I couldn’t find train times for this route.

Tips for using trains in Greece…

Train stations in Greece are extremely poorly signposted. It’s unusual to find train information on the platforms so don’t be afraid to ask where you should be standing. They also like to switch up carriage numbers so even if a 2 is painted on the carriage there may be a makeshift sign on the door saying 5.

I booked a seat on the train from Athens with what I thought would be the best view of the mountains (forward facing table/window seat on the left side) only to find I was travelling backwards on the right side. So don’t expect the carriage layout to be accurate on the booking page. I did the opposite coming back and still got the wrong seat.

Use the website below to book a week or more in advance to get a good seat. They run out quickly.

Click here to search train times and to buy tickets

| What To Wear

Like any other visit to a religious site, you need only cover up once on the property as it were. Hiking in the valley, walking along the road, in town dress as you would anywhere else. It’s only in the monasteries themselves you should dress respectfully. Encase this is ambiguous, there are signs (below) outside each monastery detailing exactly what is respectful. This includes shoulders being covered, and any skin between the neck and knees.

I found the best way was to hike in what I normally would (shorts and a t-shirt) and then get my wrap skirt out of my bag before entering the monastery. I saw other people in vest tops who then got out a light linen shirt to wear over the top once inside. Same goes for men.

There are wrap skirts made by the nuns and monks available to borrow for free by the entrance of each monastery. Some also offer cheap scarves to wrap around your waist, but they are sealed in plastic bags, produce lots of waste for the monastery and aren’t nice enough to use again. For men there seem to be ‘disposable trousers’ available for €2.

| How To Get To The Monasteries

You can easily walk to all six of the monasteries. Surprisingly, few people walk to all six and instead take tour buses, the local bus, a taxi or rent a scooter or e-bike.

I would really recommend walking to as many as you can, as the scenery on the valley floor and from the road is breathtaking. It also makes you appreciate what the monks achieved by building as high up as they did. Not to mention, an enjoyable sense of righteousness when a tour group passes.

The only times I used transport was when taking a taxi to the top for sunset and once for sunrise. When you’ve already walked up and down in a day it’s nice to have a taxi take you back up. It’s also a nice way to enjoy the winding roads.

Taxi: From Kastraki to the top is €5 and from Kalambaka is €12 (both one-way).

Local Bus: Less than €2 to to any of the monasteries. Starts from Kalambaka around 9am. (runs about every 2 hours until 4pm)

| Monasteries

There are six monasteries still functioning today. The eagle eyed amongst you may spot ruins precariously perched atop the towers of Meteora or in its caves. These are what remains of the once twenty-four separate monasteries. Some were too difficult to maintain, others were abandoned when members joined the larger monasteries. Today, there are no more than fifteen devotees in each. Only two of which are convents and not monasteries.

Each monastery costs €3 to enter, so keep some change on you.

| Saint Stephens

St. Stephens is one of the two convents and the most accessible of the six as it has no steps. Despite not having a view of the other monasteries or rocks from here, this is one of my favourites. The interior courtyard is something akin to a fairytale and the ornate chapel is unforgettable in its murals, hanging lanterns and incense holders (now learnt they’re called thuribles).

| Holy Trinity

Holy Trinity commands incredible views of Kalambaka and the rock valley below. The interior is not particularly special, but the climb is worth the views from the monastery’s rocky garden. The monastery is also home to a lovable cat which I have nicknamed Zeus. He slept on my lap for a good half an hour while I waited for the door to open and then lead me up the steps to the entrance.

| Roussanou

The second convent and one of the easier climbs. Roussanou is the centre of the Meteora valley, yet the view is far more impressive from afar than from within. This was my least favourite of the six. It has one small balcony with a limited view and the rest of the interior is dimly lit and essentially a large corridor leading to the small but stunning chapel. If you don’t feel the need to go in, I would say you could easily see the best of Roussanou from the entrance steps without having to buy a ticket. You would still get views of the larger monasteries and the rose garden below the bridge.

| Varlaam

Whilst the distances between all six monasteries are easily walkable, the walk to Varlaam and Great Meteoron is the longest. It takes about 22 minutes to walk there from Roussanou. However, the switchbacks keep it interesting and you will have sweeping views of the valley that all the drivers and tour buses have missed.

Varlaam and Great Meteoron are much larger than the others and as such have many more tour groups, many of which had overtaken me on the road there. The main spots to enjoy are the bird’s eye view of the staircase, the pergola on the terrace, the rear balcony and the museum (most informative of all the museums). When I visited they were doing building work and were hauling one plank of wood up at a time via a pulley on the rear balcony. Could easily have watched this for an afternoon.

| Great Meteoron

This is the least accessible of all the monasteries because of the variation and number of steps combined with narrow passages leading to the front door. It looks like a work out but was actually very easy, with many passing places to stop for a moment. This monastery felt more like an attraction than a spiritual refuge. Despite enjoying this one the least, there are some beautiful and interesting spots within. The view of Varlaam from the terrace, the chapel courtyard, the blue frescoes, the murals and the old kitchen.

| Saint Nicholas

The smallest of them all but well worth a visit. St Nicholas’s felt more like a home than a monastery. There were chunky sofas in the hallway (thankfully not leather) and surreal paintings on the walls. Some tourists tried to get a lift to the top with a guy visiting in a car, but he told them he was bringing supplies to his grandfather that lived in the monastery and wouldn’t give them a lift even when they offered to pay him.

The best part of this monastery is the rooftop balcony, which looks like a Tyrollean veranda complete with wooden benches and flower boxes. The balcony one story below is also breathtaking and has fantastic views of Kastraki. I also found this monastery to have the purest water, which is free to drink.

| Hikes

To fully comprehend the scale of Meteora there are 5 great hikes you can follow weaving between the feet of the stone giants. A view the first hermits would have had before they began their ascent.

| Holy Trinity Trail

Kalambaka – Holy Trinity (1 hour)

The trail starts in Kalambaka and leads you through the woods to the entrance of the Holy Trinity Monastery and takes little more than an hour. Head to the top of the town towards the Holy Church of Assumption and follow the markers to the forest. The trail is steep in places but not technically difficult and had flatter sections to catch your breath on. Halfway up there is a good view of Kalambaka below between the rocks. You will be very pleased with yourself when you arrive and appreciate the original hermits much more.

| Panagia Church & Hermitage

Kalambaka to Panagia & Hermitage (20 mins)

This was the first walk I did after getting off the train. I arrived in late afternoon and wanted to save the monasteries for the cool of the morning. The walk here from Kalambaka takes about 20 minutes. Simply walk to the edge of town and follow the bend around and up a wide dirt track above Kastraki.

Along the way you will see the remains of old hermit caves burrowed in to the cliff face which you can easily climb up to. Further along the track you will see the remnants of wooden structures of the Cave Hermitage of St. Gregory popping out of the rock. Behind you is the Monastery of Agios Nikolaos Badovas. Officially the monastery is abandoned and the gate to the monastery is closed but I saw a monk step out of the doorway as I was taking a photograph, so I don’t quite understand.

| Great Meteoron & The Dragon’s Cave

Great Meteoron – St. Nicholas (45 mins)

If you would rather walk back via the woods than on the road there is a trail from the entrance of Great Meteoron which takes you past the feet of Varlaam and on to the road three minutes up from St Nicholas. The path is enclosed beneath the canopy without sweeping views so I would recommend walking down rather than up and saving your upwards momentum for monastery stairs. The walk down was peaceful and followed the dried river bed. The best sections of the trail an be found beneath Varlaam. Here there is a small stream of water falling from the summit of the monastery to the forest floor which the birds seem to enjoy playing in. Jut after this on the left is the trail to the Dragon’s Cave. A fun climb with views towards Kastraki. Towards the road you will come across tortoises and a stone bridge woven in to the tree trunks.

| Spindle Rock

Kastraki – Spindle Rock (35 mins)

From the top of Kastraki, the trail to Spindle Rock takes about 35 minutes, but you will easily take longer with many views along the way and a church. The walk through the woods was unexpectedly beautiful with wild flowers lining the wooden steps through the forest. The second building has a great view of the village below. Just walk around the back of the hut and climb up to the flag. From here it’s not much more than 10 minutes to Spindle Rock. For the best view, and to appreciate how far you’ve walked, clamber up the base of Spindle rock and nestle yourself in the cubby hole on the ledge.

| The Great Saint

Spindle Rock – The Great Saint (50 mins)

If you made it to Spindle rock you will notice people with climbing equipment going past. They are on their way to climb the Great Saint. The tallest rock in Meteora at 630m above sea level. I knew of the hike before I went and wanted to do it but hadn’t realised how close I was to it and that I would need climbing equipment. It was only after I had climbed back down that I realised how close I had been. The climb shouldn’t be done without ropes and ideally with a guide. This is one of the more technically challenging hikes in the valley and should be done carefully.

| Holy Spirit Rock

Kastraki – Holy Spirit Rock (50 mins)

You can start the hike either from Kastraki village or from the trail opposite St Nicholas. I opted for the second as I wanted more time in the woods and to see the Monk’s Prison. The walk to the Monk’s Prison takes about 15 minutes and is worth the diversion. Most guides describe the prison more as a time out step for the monks. They already lived monastic lives, the only difference here was they were alone and in disgrace. It seems they could return and weren’t sent here to die. The cave perfectly frames Roussanou convent opposite and I’m sure would be fun to explore if you weren’t scared of caves like I am.

From the Monk’s Prison, it’s another 10 minutes to the base of the main ascent. From there it’s roughly a 20 minute scramble to the cave chapel at the top. It’s not technically difficult, you should just pick your way carefully as it would be easy to twist an ankle.

The cave chapel is always open and seems to be well tended with a box of cleaning supplies and a broom in the corner. The cave has been painted white and is bedecked in icons and crosses. The path leads on to a clearing of trees, on the opposite side of which is the ladder to the cross. The view from the top is breathtaking and for those of you who aren’t scared of heights you can climb a little higher and have a sneak peak of Roussanou which is now behind you.

Once you have scrambled back down the cliff, I would recommend walking the other way and heading back down into town where you can stop at a cafe. Mikiò is a nice place to stop and you can admire the hike you just completed directly above your table.

| Sunrise & Sunset

| Sunrise & Sunset Rock

Neither of these rocks seemed to have an official name despite their popularity. Yet I did find that all taxi drivers would take you to the first one (the one furthest from Roussanou). Both have incredible views of the valley in its entirety. The first one has a marginally wider view, where as the second has a closer view of Roussanou, Varlaam and Great Meteoron. Personally I preferred the first for sunrise as you can see the sunlight sweeping gradually across the valley. The second is better for sunset, it’s more intimate and has more comfortable rocks!

Both have stray dogs and cats, though the second one seemed to have a family of kittens when I went. My taxi driver warned me to be careful of the dogs, but I found them to be friendly and some even enjoyed the company of people. One morning, waiting for sunrise I turned round and saw a dog on the rock behind me also watching the sunrise, completely uninterested in me.

Sunset is far more popular than sunrise for obvious reasons but people still get there early. I would recommend getting to sunset (the moment the sun disappears) an hour before to enjoy the golden hour and to get a comfortable spot. Saying this many people don’t seem to consider sitting on the front of the rock (which is safe) and you can usually nab the best spot.

For sunrise I would go 30 after (yes after), so can photograph the suns progression across the rock. I waited for just over an hour, got very cold and hadn’t considered that the sun reaches the valley last as it actually rises behind meteora. Come too late though and the tour buses will have caught up to you and you will be swarmed before you know it.

| Kastraki Rock

Though not a sunrise or sunset point, the rock above central Kastraki is a great place to sit in the early evening and have a picnic with a view.

| Varlaam Rock

Another great spot is the rock cluster between Varlaam and Great Meteoron. This would be perfect for an afternoon picnic and has lots of photo opportunities and views of Varlaam from above.

| Restaurants & Cafes

| Meteoron Panorama Restaurant

A must visit while in town. This restaurant at the Kastraki end of Kalambaka is the most scenic of all. The terrace is directly beneath the rocks, allowing you to get up close and gaze at the many caves nestled in the rock. If you’re lucky you may see some mountain goats skilfully weaving their way between the crevasses. The food was fresh and the menu had traditional dishes as well as a few more familiar options. If you want to come for dinner I would recommend making a reservation and specifying where you would prefer to sit.

| To Paramithi Taverna

Further down the hill back towards town is To Paramithi Taverna. I didn’t get a chance to eat here, but it was very photogenic.

| Mikiò’s Cafe

If you’re in Kastraki, head to Mikio’s cafe just above the town square. They do coffees and delicatessen bits. It’s also where a lot of the climbers come for a drink and a great place to people watch as they get all their equipment ready.

If like me you’ve walked up to the monasteries and back down again and you are feeling less than human, a great place to stop as soon as you enter Kastraki is Boufidis Greek Taverna The food isn’t gourmet but its exactly the kind of fuel you need after a hike, with lots of cheese, bread, fried food and if you want, meat.