MUNICH’S ART NOUVEAU MANSIONS

| What is Art Nouveau?

Art Nouveau is an architectural style, known in Germany as Jugendstil. Think Pre-Raphaelite long haired beauties, Paris Metro signs and Gaudi’s famed houses in Barcelona. All of these styles are Art Nouveau at its best.

The scandalous style of Art Nouveau was born in a glamorous sounding era, known as the Belle Epoque, just before World War One. It defies the strict rules of architecture, and paved a way for more whimsical and natural buildings.

| Where in Munich?

The best areas in Munich for hunting down some of these elaborate mansions are the residential neighbourhoods of Schwabing and Bogenhausen. This beautiful style is not just reserved for elaborate houses; it can also be discovered at the public swimming pool. Who said changing rooms had to be sterile and boring? So here are the 10 best examples of Art Nouveau on show in Munich. Many just a short walk from the cafes of Marienplatz.

Cycling is the perfect way to go on this treasure hunt, as you can hop on on off as you please, without getting frustrated by the walking distance between. It takes about 2 hours in total (if you want to stop and take photos, which you will). Happy hunting!

| Schwabing

1 The Egyptian House | 11 Römer Strasse

A fearsome face to keep an eye out for, is the one above the entrance to ‘The Egyptian House’. The observant among you might notice the similarities between this house and the third one. Both houses were designed by the same architects.

The owner was obsessed with ancient Egypt and wanted his house to reflect his passion. So you may be thinking, why is there a Greek God fresco and not an Egyptian one? Next to the entrance is a fresco of the Greek God Narcissus, vainly staring in to his mirror for eternity. However, it is not the face of beautiful Narcissus that will scare you, but the one above the doorway, which I can only describe as a chocolate Malteaser wearing the gold edition of Magneto’s metal helmet (X-men reference).

2 Apothecary House |19 Franz-Joseph Strasse

The face remains the same but the boutique stores within seem to have a quick turn over, all apart from the apothecary. On days when the communal front door is left open, you can sneak in to the central courtyard to see more of the beautiful design.

3 Adam and Eve’s House | 22 Ainmiller Strasse

Ainmillerstrasse cannot and must not be missed on an Art Nouveau Tour of Munich, especially number 22. This house, more fondly known as ‘The Garden of Eden’, is one of the finest examples in the city.

Just above the doorway, you can see a naked couple facing one another, under a tree. The woman is holding out an apple to her partner. It’s Eve. Creating scenes of Adam and Eve became very popular in the movement and variations of the pair can even be seen in Gustav Klimt’s evocative painting, The Kiss. When the fresco of the ‘original sinners’ was first added to the house, it caused local uproar!

4 The Double Archway |20 Ainmiller Strasse

You needn’t wander far for the next one. At number 20 Ainmillerstrasse is a very Instagrammable double archway to the Bookworm Nursery School. The mustard coloured door and pink wall are sheltered by a thick but decorative stone arch. The top of which, is decorated with the giant face of the smiling Green Man.  The Green Man is a symbol of rebirth and nature which perfectly ties in with Art Nouveau themes. Though, I’m not sure if his face scares the nursery children or not.

5 Pacelli Palais

Hidden away, on the corner of number 10 Georgenstraße, behind a blossom tree, is the beautiful facade of Bissing Palace. If you peer through the railings, you will spot the decorative entrance to the Palace. The palaces on Georgenstraße are just two of the 37 historical buildings on this street. Interestingly, the paintings on Bising Palace were actually added after Art Nouveau had gone out of fashion, to celebrate the neighbourhood’s artistic past. See if you can recognise the portraits.

6 The Park House | Leopold Park (North side)

This house is a little more secreted away than the others. To find it, you have to venture into Leopold Park, around the back of the house. Just down the path, on the left you will come across a large gateway in the bushes, overlooked by an elegant house and garden. The facade is decorated with colourful fruits and flowers, not to mention two peacocks above the top window. I can only imagine how nice it must be to sit on the balcony overlooking the park and the roses in the garden below. 

7 Rock Candy House | 23 Franz-Joseph-Straße

Just around the corner from Leopold Park, at 23 Franz-Josephstraße there is a house which always reminds me of rock candy. The pillars of the balcony are twisted in to black and white chequers, whilst the windows above are lined with bright red and blue accents. Keep an eye out for the little smiling man sitting under the window.  

As much as I love this gem of a house, its best features are not at street level, making it harder to enjoy. However, the other side of the house has a bold green framed entrance and the neighbouring houses have pretty decorative features. House number 19 (the back of the Park House) is particularly attractive and now houses an apothecary, meaning you can finally wander inside one of these beautiful buildings!

8 Missing Corner House | 4 Elisabeth Platz

The large building on the corner of Elisabeth Platz which seems to be missing a few floors is actually a school. More specifically, a college for apprenticeships.

9 Daisy Chain House | 14 Konrad Strasse

I couldn’t find any clues as to the design of this beautiful archway, but it’s a nice stop to add to the tour.

10 Secret Bike Shed | 22 Isabellastraße

With a keen eye you should come across more of these miniature doors in Bogenhausen and Schwabing. However, this one immediately caught my attention. This little doorway is now the entrance to the bike shed for the apartment building above. I’d love to think it was once the entrance to a home. Keep an eye out! 

If you enjoy hunting for beautiful doors, click here to read about Tallinn’s protected doorways

Other locations in Schwabing:

Leopold Strasse 77: (with four Christmas tree decals)

11 Cauldron House | 81 Hezrog Strasse

For a building with two steaming cauldrons on its walls, the space is aptly occupied by two restaurants. Wether or not this is intentional, I don’t know.

| Bögenhousen

12 Peacock House | 47 Lucile-Grahn Strasse

Just around the corner from where Hitler’s apartment once was (ironically now a police station), is a beautiful facade surrounding a circular window, adorned in peacocks and purple flowers. I really hope the inside of that top floor apartment reflects its exterior.

13 Riverside Castle | 27 Maria-Theresa Strasse

On the other side of the Isar from Schwabing, near Villa Stuck, is a street lined with castle sized homes complete with turrets. The most beautiful, is Villa Bechtolscheim at number 27 Maria-Theresia Straße, the first Jugendstil house in Germany. This blue castle of a house is flowing with the tendrils of white vines wrapping around the turret and in between the circular windows. I can only imagine how magical the room inside looks!

14 Turret House| 13 Maria-Theresa Strasse

Sadly, this romantic looking castle of a house is now divided between consultancy and lawyers offices. Not likely to peek inside any time soon.

Other locations in Bogenhausen:

Trogerstraße 50 (square doorway)

| Au-Haidhousen

15 Mullersches Volksbad

The Volksbad deserves to be number 15 for its uniqueness. It’s considered the jewel of Munich’s Art Nouveau gallery! This public indoor pool was the first in Munich, and was inspired by Oriental bath houses and the thermal spas of ancient Rome. Even the changing rooms are an architectural experience. Despite the Volksbad’s luxurious appearance, it was commissioned upon the promise that it remain open to the public and not become a hide out for the elite. So you’re welcome to enjoy it, for less than €7. Still a bit steep, but then it’s Munich.