I went to Morocco this autumn [2022] as a 27 year old white female solo traveller from the UK. I had never been to a third world country before, never mind one in Africa or even experienced a Muslim culture.

I wanted to write this from a solo female traveller perspective to give others confidence and dispel some myths. I’ve also included the link to my YouTube video on this topic which has a few extra tips.

I hope this post helps you enjoy your time in Morocco and feel empowered to travel alone. The most important advice is to trust your gut and if a situation feels wrong, remove yourself from it immediately. What feels safe for one person is different for another.

|Choosing Your Accommodation

Choosing your accommodation in Marrakech is like anywhere else. You need to consider, how close you want to be to all the sites, wether you want to be in the city centre, how luxurious you want your stay to be…

I stayed in a hostel in the Medina walls. This was good and bad. I liked that I was never far from my hostel if I wanted a break from the streets. I also like that I met other solo girls in my small dorm who I would go out with. On the downside, it would have been nice to feel a bit more separated from the bustle of the Medina and to have a more private space to retreat to. If I went again I would still stay in a hostel if I was travelling alone, but probably a nicer one.

If you’re going to see the city rather than staying in a spa or resort you should definitely book a Riad or hostel in the Medina Walls. I would suggest booking one away from the main square so you can get a little peace.

|Getting To Your Riad/Hotel

If you are arriving from the airport like I did, I would recommend booking a taxi via your Riad/hotel. This takes the pressure off of your first time in the city and you don’t have to practice haggling as soon as you land. My hostel charged me 200 Dirhams for the taxi who met me outside the arrivals door. I did have to search the signs for a while but I found him eventually and he took me safely to the hostel.

Although 200 Dirhams is quite expensive for the short ride to the Medina, the official rate is 150 Dirhams and you will find it hard to get a taxi driver to honour it. So I think an extra 50 Dirhams is worth the lack of stress.

I spent time looking for the driver in the arrivals hall and was worried when I couldn’t see him. Turns out he was outside at the back of the crowd. So don’t stress.

It was never made clear to me if I was to pay the taxi driver or pay the hostel. I ended up paying the driver.

|Walking The City Alone

What I was told: Before arriving in Morocco everyone from strangers, to family to older travellers had told me I wouldn’t be able to walk around Marrakech alone and that I would need to join tour groups to be safe.

What happened: THIS IS NOT TRUE! Not once did I feel I couldn’t walk alone. Not only could I walk alone but I could also stay out late.

What I was told: You must not go out by yourself in the evening, especially not after the last call to prayer at 9pm.

What happened: I went out to dinner every evening I was there and often walked back to my hostel after 11pm. Sometimes with a friend, sometimes alone. I never felt threatened, but I always stayed aware of my surroundings.

Only once did a feel unsettled, this was my imagination rather than the situation. I was walking through the closed souks at night on my way to a restaurant and suddenly realised I was alone and could only see dark alleys ahead. Because all the stalls were closed, there weren’t street lights and I had entered the market from a different entrance I didn’t recognise the street. I headed for a better lit area and came across a tourist couple. I walked with them until I was somewhere I recognised and went to the restaurant as normal. The next morning I reworked the route and realised I was seconds from the street I knew and had just freaked myself out.

In particular I was worried about the Souks.

What I was told: All the guides, posts and videos out there said I would be lost as soon as I stepped in to the Souks (open-air markets) as though it was some kind of Alice in Wonderland rabbit hole that would trap me. It also made me worried I would get lost and cornered down some dark alleyway. This couldn’t be further from the truth.

What happened: Though I did at times need to double back on myself I was never far from an identifiable landmark and I found myself not needing to check my offline map by the end of the first day. It was empowering to so quickly find myself able to navigate these back alleys and streets.

Tip: Though offline maps struggle to keep up with you in the alleys, they’re great outside of the souks and I used it nonstop in Morocco.

|Tips & Tricks

Download an offline map of Marrakech from Maps.Me and save locations (including your riad/hostel) before heading out

They will bother you more if they see you have already bought something, so put in a bag of your own.

If the constant calling out is getting you down, pop some earphones in and listen to a familiar song.

If you need to stop and work out where you are going, you can. People will come up to you but just ignore them or tell them no until they go away. If you do need to stop, stand in a public area and not down a quiet side street.

If you’re really lost go in a cafe or shop and ask for help.

Do not accept directions from anyone who walks with you or says their friend can take you there.

If you feel like you are going down a bad alley or are alone, head back the way you came or stick with another tourist.

NEVER, NEVER, NEVER give more money than the price! They will not give you change! If anything show them you have less than that and start to walk away if they say they need more. They will probably call you back and accept the money.

Haggling isn’t as horrible or as cringey as I first thought. Ask how much, half it or more if it’s unreasonable. Bargain a little up if you want to. If not, walk away. This often gets them to give in or they just move on to the next person.

Remember you don’t have to buy anything. Only buy it if you genuinely like it and don’t be afraid to say if it’s too much!

The tanneries in Marrakech aren’t photogenic or special, so save any tannery visits for Fez!

|How To Dress

I was really concerned about how to dress before I went as I had never been to a Muslim country before and I know how I dress affects my mood quite a lot. Some blog posts and videos said it was best to wear full length sleeves, others said dress as you would at home. In the end I took 3 pairs of baggy crepe trousers and 6 cap-sleeved t-shirts. For me this was perfect. I wear loose clothing when I am at home, so I didn’t feel uncomfortable and didn’t have to buy anything new.

I was really surprised to see how different tourists dressed. Some dressed like me in nice but loose clothing, others wore denim shorts and tank tops. I even saw one western tourist walking around in a bikini top. I did notice however, that girls who dressed less conservatively were travelling with a guy. Wether or not you are travelling with a guy or alone, I don’t think this is a safe way to dress in Morocco, aside from it also being disrespectful.

How you dress isn’t just about wether you look sexualised or not but how much attention you attract to yourself. I’d say the less the better, as you will be guaranteed attention as a Westerner even if you dress in a full habit.

Check out my blog post with photos of how other tourists dress in Morocco and decide for yourself.

|What To See

|Souks

The souks are open aired markets and are separated by the traditional crafts and goods they produce and sell. There are spice stalls, carpet sellers, perfume shops, blacksmiths’ and carpenters’ workshops, and fabric dyers.

The souks were my favourite and least favourite part of Marrakech. I loved the colours, the spices, the otherworldliness of it. I grew tired of the pollution, the salesmen and the crowds. By the third day I would wear my headphones the entire time to blot out the calls and attention.

The spice shop photographed below was owned by the friendliest stall owner I met the entire time I was in Marrakech. He and his colleagues had no problem with photos even if you didn’t buy something. I so appreciated his kindness I bought some of the rose petals from the basket below and now keep them on my desk in a ceramic bowl.

The day before, I had had the opposite experience in a souk near Bahia Palace. I was searching for a restaurant on one of the narrow alleys and an elderly stall owner saw I was lost and offered to help. He told me how to get to the restaurant and I felt obliged to talk to him a little for his help. I had no intention of spending money but I hadn’t yet experienced any bad situations and was disarmed by his elderly appearance and friendliness. After showing me the different spices in his tiny shop and shoving quite a few of them up my nose I conceded and said I would buy some spices meant for migraines for 20 Dirhams. Not having any small change I naively gave him a 200 Dirham note! (Looking back, I can’t believe I did it) He told me he had no change and would have to get some from the shop across the street. I watched him go and come back only to not be given any change. 180 Dirhams less than we agreed. Though I felt queasy, I told him that he owed me change and I no longer wanted his spices and wanted my money back instead. He got 50 Dirhams out of his pocket and gave it me. I took it and said no I want all my money back. He saw I wasn’t backing off and gave me another 100 Dirhams. Still 30 Dirhams short of the agreed price, I handed him back the spices, after he wouldn’t take them I put them on his desk and held out my hand for the money. He picked up the spices and started adding other bits and pieces from around the shop saying it was a present and smiling. He tried to keep me in the shop but I said no that you, took my spices and left. I found the restaurant 2 minutes later and was glad to be off the street. I was in disbelief at the situation. I was just relieved it hadn’t involved more money.

|Wander Freely

I got some of my favourite photos from the trip from just exploring aimlessly within the Medina. True, many of the alleys were in fact dead ends, but some of them lead me to the photos below. In particular, I found out how colourful the walls of Moroccan schools are and spent the rest of my trip keeping an eye out for them. The bottom left photo is of a school wall and definitely one of the plainer ones.

Top left photo is of a feline family watching a butcher’s shop window. Top right is a band and its camel that was making its way down an alley I had wandered into. Bottom right is a rug shop I came across on my morning walk.

|Jardin Majorelle

The Majorelle botanical garden was created in the 1930s by the French artist and adventurer Jacques Majorelle who made Marrakech his home in 1917. He later commisioned the blue cubist villa to be its centrepiece and his home. Until his was forced to return to Paris by ill health he tended to the 2000 species of plants in the garden. After he left for Paris, the house and garden were left abandoned and fell prey to developers. Yves Saint Laurent and his partner Pierre Bergé bought the land, restored the property and lived in the villa. After Yves died the house was turned into a museum for Berber culture.

Whilst tickets are on the expensive side at 150 Dirhams, the garden is a nice break from the chaos of the city. If you don’t have long in Marrakech, save this one for another time.

Tip: You can easily walk here from the Medina. It took me 30 minutes from my riad and takes you outside the Medina gates. (Immediately outside the gate I was met with a busy and filthy market and an enormous roundabout so be aware of your surroundings)

|Jardin Secret

I used gardens and cafes as rest-stops from the streets during my time in Marrakech and found this one particularly useful. The secret garden is in the centre of the Medina and a welcome oasis. I spend good 10 minutes on every seat in the garden enjoying the different views. You can climb the tower to the rooftop cafe (view in photo below) or enjoy lunch by the pond at the other side of the garden.

Entrance is 80 Dihrams which I still think is a little expensive for a city garden (I could be biased as the British exchange rate was particularly bad at the time of my visit).

|El Badi Palace

I had no idea what to expect from El Badi other than the incredible tiled Guest House which I first saw in National Geographic 5 years earlier. The once staggering Palace has been in ruins since 1700 when the new ruler moved the capital to Meknes and ordered his new palace to be built using the stone from El Badi Palace.

The enormous central courtyard is divided by symmetrical pools and lowered orange groves. The perimeter walls seem to be home to the city’s stalk population. Usually you can walk the higher walls and enjoy a view of the entire complex and the Medina beyond but when I went the upper walls were unfortunately closed.

Entrance is 70 Dirhams. I was the first one there and the man in the office box was having his morning mint tea and generously poured me a glass of tea too. Had it not been so piping hot I would have finished it, but I wanted to see the palace without anyone there and thanked him before hurting off through the first gate.

Tip: Check out these photos from the 2019 Dior Marrakech Fashion Show to see the Palace lit up by a thousand candles!

|Bahia Palace

Visiting El Badi and Bahia Palace in the same day, the two couldn’t have been more different. Unlike El Badi, Bahia Palace is all in its original condition. The Palace is a series of courtyards and 150 palatial rooms once used by the Sultan, his four wives and his concubines.

As I went to EL Badi first and then had brunch at a cafe I didn’t arrive at Bahia until midday, its busiest time. Regrettably many of the botanical courtyards and rooms were full of tour groups and families but it was still possible to enjoy the details of the palace. The colourful stained glass windows, the floor to cieling wood carvings and detailed mosaics still shone out through the crowds. My favourite parts of the palace were the rainbow windows in the larger garden and the colourful ceilings.

|Koutoubian Mosque

Though I couldn’t enter the mosque as a non-muslim and a woman, it still felt the centrepiece of the city. If only as a grande way marker for my internal compass. The avenue leading from the mosque to the main square was lined day and night by horse pulled carriages. Many, I’m sad to say looked worryingly underfed. The smell of urine and manure was almost too much as I walked past, staring at the horses’ exposed haunches and refusing offers of a ride.

|Jamaa El Fna Square

The main square is the most chaotic place in Marrakech and crossing it is often like passing through a human soup. I avoided it at midday, partly because of the heat, the crowds and also because the main attraction is street food, which I didn’t want to risk eating. I liked it best early in the morning when the square is still quiet and stalls are setting up. I was surprised by how much I enjoyed it at night too. At night you will find traditional style groups playing live music and singing. Of course someone comes round with a hat asking for money but it’s only fair and you can easily say no and disappear in to the crowd.

|Moulay El Yazid Mosque

A short walk from El Badi Palace is the other main mosque of the city, Moulay El Yazid. Again, I couldn’t enter but I did enjoy the view of its mosaic tower from a rooftop cafe on the road opposite. There were quite a few nice cafes opposite the mosque but I chose Kasbah Cafe, which I had had my heart since on since leaving my Riad that morning.

Tip: Kasbah Cafe is also directly opposite the Saadien Tombs, another popular historical attraction.

|Cafes & Restaurants

As I said before, the cafes of Marrakech were my havens and a place to recharge before heading back out on to the streets. But I didn’t just go to any cafe, I went to some of the most beautiful cafes I have ever seen! You could easily spend a month in Marrakech visiting all its charming cafes and rooftop restaurants. My favourites were Cafe Nomad and Cafe Des Epices (both in Place Des Epices Square) which I was going to photograph on my last night until I got ill. My other favourites were…

La Famille (Vegetarian Restaurant near Bahia Palace)

Kasbah Cafe (Rooftop Cafe near Moulay El Yazid Mosque)

Cafe Atay (Rooftop Cafe in the central Medina)

Cafe Atay served me the best vegetarian tagine and food in general my entire time I was in Morocco! Went back two nights in a row.

|What I Didn’t Have Time To See

|Menara Gardens

Menara Gardens are a 30 minute walk from the Medina. With only 3 days in the city and getting ill on my third I decided not to venture so far out. The main attraction of the gardens is the palmarie and the view of the Atlas Mountains across the pond. After having tried to pierce the smoggy haze resting above the city for my entire visit I decided I probably wouldn’t be able to see the Atlas Mountains from the gardens either. Perhaps I needed to visit earlier in the year for a clearer view.

|D’Agdal Gardens

For the same reasons I didn’t venture out to D’Agdal. If I go to Marrakech again, I would visit as this is the place to photograph the backdrop of the Atlas Mountains against the old city walls. Somewhere to visit if you have plenty of time in the city or want to go somewhere different.

|Anima Gardens

Yes, another garden. This one is a little different though. Andre Heller’s Anima garden is a land of whimsical sculptures. Expect large Africa masks tiled in mosaics hiding in the bushes and giant wire hands with eyes looming above the paths. A 45 minute drive from Marrakech Medina, near the town of Ourika. Make a stop at an Ourika riverside cafe for lunch afterwards and it will be more than worth the hair-raising drive.

|Dar El Bacha

Once a prestigious riad and now a museum and period style cafe. Dar El Bacha seems like the perfect pit stop to rest and marvel at traditional architecture. It looks like booking is essential though.

|Ben Youseff Madrasa

Despite being a 5 minute walk from my hostel, I just felt too ill on the last day to make my way through the throngs of the Medina and had to skip it. Ben Youseff Madrasa was once Africa’s largest Islamic school where more 900 students would sleep and study. It functioned until 1960, when it was closed for 20 years, to be opened as a museum. I can only imagine how beautiful the craftsmanship is and will have to see for myself next time. Apparently the inscription above the main entrance reads ‘You who enter my door, may your highest hopes be exceeded’.