You have probably heard of Sri Lanka and even know where to point to it on a map (hint: it’s called the teardrop of India) but you want to know whether it is any different from India or other parts of South East Asia. This blog post should help you decide whether to include Sri Lanka on your tour of Asia or to make it your next holiday!
A question commonly asked about travelling to Sri Lanka is…Is the home of Ceylon Tea safe to visit? Short Answer: Yes.
The island’s civil war ended in 2009 and though there have been a handful of terrorist bombings since the country is now going through a tourism boom, which is replacing the conflict in the north, making it just as safe to visit as neighbouring India or Thailand.
Sri Lanka prides itself on the production of cinnamon and tea, but the country is far more than an exotic teabag in your mornin’ cuppa. This island country is about the same size as the state of Florida, its national sport is volleyball despite its love of cricket and is the resting place of one of Buddha’s teeth!
#1 SIGIRIYA & PIDURANGALA ROCK
It’s Sigiriya Rock you want to see but that doesn’t mean you should climb it! Instead, climb its little brother Pidurangala Rock for the best view (look at the little blue ants climbing the cliff) at only 10% of the cost. At €28 dollars a pop to visit Sigiriya Rock this is a steep ask for most budget backpackers, even if you can visit the lion’s paw (a large stone paw at the base of the gravity-defying steps).
If the temptation is too much, by all means, traverse the rock-hewn steps to the summit of Sigiriya to view the fortress. The fortress was built by an illegitimate prince who fled to the rock, which was then a monastery, after murdering his father. The murdering prince lived and reigned from the rock for 20 years before his brother, the legitimate heir, returned with an army from India and other threw his half brother before returning the rock to the monks. When the monks had been pushed out by the murdering prince they moved to the next best rock, Pidurangala. This is how there came to be a temple on Pidurangala. So really its a choice between the remains of a maze-like fortress built by a traitorous son or the temporary home of cave-dwelling monks! Not that I am biased at all! Haha
#2 NUWARA ELIYA
Affectionately dubbed the ‘Little England’, Nuwara Eliya was as close to British weather as tea plantation owners could get and a homesick village soon sprung up, complete with a post office in a Tudor house! If like me you are travelling to get away from England and its limited variety of weather this may sound like the last place you want to visit, until that is you hear about St. Clair’s Falls! One of the few waterfalls in Sri Lanka to be saddled by tea plantations either side and breaking into a greater and lesser fall. Most visitors start their visit with a stroll through the tea plantation before happening upon the tiered waterfall.
Another waterfall nearby that is worth visiting near Adam’s Peak is Gartmore Falls (yes, Gartmore is a place in Scotland!) The falls are fed by two streams which converge to cascade down the hills of Nuwara Eliya and into the Gartmore Reservoir. Hiking anywhere in the valleys surrounding the reservoir is sure to produce spectacular luscious views, typical of Sri Lankan highlands.
#3 ELLA
Ella is not one of the country’s busy beach towns, but it is just as sought after, if not more! Ella skims the roof of Sri Lanka’s highlands, making it a lot cooler and the perfect place to spend a few days recuperating in the milder temperatures before setting out on a humid jungle trek! Many of the places to see on this list can be reached from Ella. One of which, not mentioned anywhere else on this blog is Little Adam’s Peak. After clambering up the steep slopes you are rewarded with the chance to embrace your love of the Lion King and survey the Ella Gap many thousands of feet below from a rock jutting out from the cliff like a diving board.
#4 LIPTON’S TEA VIEWPOINT
When I’m travelling somewhere overwhelmingly hot and I give in to buying something other than water it is always Lipton’s Peach Ice Tea! That is half the reason for mentioning this, the other half is that the top of Lipton’s very own tea plantation has an incredible view of the tea leaf valleys below! The spot from which Lipton himself would admire his highland empire. The best time to go is very early in the morning to avoid the mist and to see the tea pickers making their way into the fields to start work. Like everywhere in Sri Lanka a tuk-tuk is available to take you to the top, or you can make the 8km hike through luscious tea plantations, starting from Dambatenne Tea Factory.
#5 NINE ARCH BRIDGE
This dreamlike bridge connecting Ella and Domodara was originally intended to be made of steel and not brick, but during WW2 every bit of steel was needed for the war effort and could not be justified for building a bridge through tea plantations. Luckily a local building contractor decided to finish the bridge using stone instead.
Yes, you can stand on ‘The Bridge in the Sky’ when the blue train rattles through! Just make sure to lean back against the bridge as the train doesn’t wait for the bridge to clear before crossing! Before going make sure to jot down the train times, though allow ample time either side for the unpredictable train which trundles along the tea plantations from mid-morning to late afternoon about 5 times a day. The entire experience is enhanced by the train’s passengers who hang out of the windows and call out to onlookers waiting on the bridge! Even if you’re not on the tracks it is still a good idea to keep train timings in mind as the sky blue of the train helps to pick out the blue roofs of the huts perched on the slopes beyond the bridge, which can only be seen from a distance.
To get to the bridge you can either follow the tracks from Ella train station or take a Tuktuk. It’s best to plan how to get to the bridge once you know where you want to take your photos from. A lot of people love the close-up shot right on the tracks, many Instagrammers opt for standing in the tea fields near the end of the bridge, but my personal favourites are the view from below, stuck in the tea fields (ask the workers if you can go into the field and BEWARE of leaches!) and the leaf framed view from the Asanka cafe hidden amongst the jungle.
#6 STILT FISHERMEN OF KOGGALA
Do you remember that moody photograph of Sri Lanka’s stilt fishermen taken by Steve McCurry in 1995? I don’t, that was the year I was born! But since that photo was captured people have been so interested in coming to capture these fisherman balancing on wafts sticks that seem to spring from the sand without support but not many realise that the men on the sticks are actors!
Stilt fishing is actually a relatively recent practice (about 70 years old) and certainly not one that has survived the waves of centuries. It came about as a way to get away from the overcrowded shores and out into the coral reefs where there were fewer men vying for the same catch. The first fishermen to move away from the shore would balance themselves on sunken WW2 planes or shipwrecks just off the beach. Later they took to planting their stilts in advantageous areas of the coral reef. Unfortunately despite these ingenious attempts, the local fishermen are struggling to make ends meet and instead find it is more profitable to rent out their stilts to actors who pretend to be these sea-ravaged fishermen for the clamouring tourists.
*There is also a sea turtle sanctuary in Koggala!
#7 WHERE TO FIND AN ELEPHANT
Whilst researching what to see in Sri Lanka I came across Pinnwala Elephant Orphanage which I naively thought would be a place of refuge for mistreated elephants. Unfortunately, the opposite is true, the elephants you can see in the river below are chained to a submerged slab of concrete and are unable to move from the river until the keepers unchain them after the visitors have left. If like me you would like to see elephants whilst visiting Sri Lanka choose from one of the National Park Safari tours, for example, Minneriya National Park or Udawalawe. I have left off Yale National Park as this one is a bit of a tourist trap and the number of visitors in jeeps can put the elephants off and also be a source of stress. If you can opt for one of the less busy tours then be happy in the knowledge that the elephants are treated better and you are supporting their welfare.
#8 SRI LANKA’S CAPITAL CITY OF COLOMBO
Colombo, Sri Lanka’s capital was one of the cities attacked by bombings a few years ago, but trade is booming once again! Once known as ‘The Garden City of The East’ Colombo has now become a high rise port city. Most visitors fly into Colombo and use it as a transport hub to get to the more peaceful attractions secreted away in the highlands. That’s not to say that there is nothing to make you stop in Colombo’s tuk-tuk lined streets for a few hours though! Jami-Ul-Ufar Mosque and Sri Kailawasanathar Swami Devasthanam Temple, believed to be one of the oldest Hindu temples in the world, will give your eyes a break from staring at the predictable white tower blocks along the waterfront. The candy cane mosque has been a symbol of the city since it was built over a hundred years ago and has towered over the neighbouring streets like an enormous Umpalumpa palace ever since. Be warned, staring too long can be dizzying! Haha
#9 RAVANA, BOPATH, KNUCKLES DUWILI ELLA, & DIYALUMA FALLS
Of the 400 waterfalls dotting the island, Knuckles Duwili Ella, Ravana, Bopath and Diyaluma are by far my favourites! They also happen to be the few that resisted being given British names, unlike Bakers and Devon Falls!
Knuckles Forest hides the magical Duwili Ella falls from a lot of tourists and this is one of the reasons it is the most magical waterfall experience you can have in Sri Lanka. To reach it you must hike over mountain streams, past caves, through forests and even camp at the riverside. You will know it when you see it, and will want to pitch your tent right there and never leave! Before you eventually do have to pack up your bags make sure you try the 5-minute climb up to the cave behind the falls, veiled in thick drooping tree roots and vines like a natural shower curtain. Perch on the cave floor and peer out from behind the roots, let the falls splash you as they rush by and look out on to the mountains beyond. Personally, I find this a far more spiritual experience than any temple!
Ravana, the widest waterfall in the country, only a ten-minute drive from Ella AND you can swim in her pools! The only downside is that because it is so easily accessible it is very busy, especially when there have been heavy rains and the falls are at their most impressive. Not just tourists flock here but monkeys too, so keep an eye on your things when you dip in for a swim. Ravana is also home to some impressive caves which are a nice way to extend your trip to last the whole day.
Bopath, unlike many Sri Lankan waterfalls takes its name from a sacred local plant leaf, the Bo leaf. If you can tear yourself away from the falls, follow the cascade down the river until you reach the designated swimming area where you can splash away the heat in the cool running water.
Diyaluma whilst not as popular as other waterfalls is one of the most impressive! It is the second-highest fall in the country and the sixth highest in the entire world! Like Bopath falls, Diyaluma parts two smoothed rocks at its highest point before springing from the rift and cascading through multiple natural pools before plummeting into the final pool at its feet 220m below! If you’re not afraid of heights climb to the very top and dangle your legs over the edge of the pools at the top!
#10 DAMBULLA TEMPLE
A unique cave temple complex of 5 caves shelters a line up of over 150 buddha statues! Well actually, its less of a cave, more of a monolith of an overhang! Inside the ‘cave’ are the buddha statues, a golden monument which scratches the low ceiling painted in murals depicting folklore and local history! The reds and golden yellows dancing across the roof make the cave feel homely and rich despite the lack of other decorations.
Whilst in Dambulla also check out the Iron Forest, a collection of rocky hills formed entirely of rose quartz, which bursts from the ground dappled with lime green bushes and frequented by lizards. This is the largest rose quartz mountain in all of South Asia!
#11 POYA & FESTIVAL OF THE TOOTH
There are three Poya festivals in Sri Lanka each year, the two best are, the first in March during the full moon when white paper lanterns fill the houses and streets. The second is the Festival of The Tooth held in Kandy every year. The lanterns are also brought out for this festival, but are now joined by fire dancers and processions of over 100 decorated elephants for 1 week of celebrations! On the last day of the festival, one of the elephants carries a replica of Buddha’s tooth encased in a golden casket to the Temple of the Tooth. The festival happens every summer in Kandy so make sure to book your accommodation well in advance!
Diwali is also celebrated in Sri Lanka, the Festival of Light. The entire city becomes one illuminated shrine, lit by millions of candles to celebrate Lord Rama’s defeat of Ravana. Just as with the Festival of the Tooth, the last day of the Festival is the most highly anticipated.
#12 HINDU TEMPLES OF SRI LANKA (OUTSIDE OF COLOMBO)
First is Maruthanar Madam Anjanajar Temple. At this temple is a 72-foot high statue of God Hanuman, the monkey god, who seems to be caged behind the street’s nest of electricity cables, bound to Earth.
Second, Old Kathiresan Temple has been under restoration for so long not even some of the locals are familiar with it. Outside the gates, you buy garlands of flowers, amongst other offerings before entering the main shrine and being asked for your name and birth star before entering further. You will also come across the temple’s resident cows and roosters who are of significance to the deities honoured here.
Thirdly, Koneswaram is a colourful Hindu temple on Sri Lanka’s north coast, most easily recognised by its enormous Shiva statue. It’s hard to imagine it being any more impressive but apparently, in its prime, it rivalled some of India’s most prized Hindu temples. Unfortunately, when Sri Lanka was colonised by the Portuguese a large number of the country’s national symbols and shrines were destroyed, those on the coast like Koneswaram even has parts chucked into the sea. The closest town to the temple is the beautiful port of Trincomalee and the surrounding areas in the north tend to have more laidback beaches which are less developed so if you fancy a few beach days without herds of tourists kicking sand on to your suncream this area is your best bet.
#13 MIRISSA COCONUT HILL
Mirissa Beach Coconut Hill is exactly that, a sandy red thumb studded with single coconut palms. Coconut Hill like Mirissa Beach is certainly a popular tourist spot, especially amongst Instagrammers, but as you all know if you can time it just right you can always find a gap of time when the majority of tourists are either still in bed or lazing on the beach! On Marissa Beach, there is a little outcrop sitting just off the shore which is also a fun tiny place to explore if you are bored of lying on the beach getting sunburnt or need to shake all the sand out of your body!
#14 TRAIN RIDE
The train ride from Kandy to Ella takes 7 hours, and still that won’t seem enough. If you want those photos of yourself hanging out of the train doors you should make sure to get 2nd class tickets. obviously you can change out all the doors you want in third class too but third class is incredible crowded and can make it a a hectic experience. There is only one way to buy the tickets online (at 12Go and no less than 37 days in advance) otherwise you have to book them a the station which can be difficult if you are not so flexible about your dates/times of travel.
Once on the train, you can enjoy an experience that simply no longer exists in the western world! So hang your head out the train window or even door, watching the scenery roll by without dirty glass hampering your view. Beauty is around every corner of the tracks, but in particular on the right hand side of the train (Kandy to Ella).
If 7 hours seems a bit too much to ask you can always break up the journey into two by spending a few nights in ‘Little England’, a town in the Sri Lankan highlands, mentioned earlier in this post.
#15 JAFFNA
After wandering through the tightly packed market stalls you should make sure you visit a few attractions that make Jaffna special, or rather, the outskirts of Jaffna special. There are two intricate Hindu temples in the area, the golden Nallur Kandiswamy temple and the Keerimalai Naguleswaram Kovil further out of town. The second has a spiritual pond, which is said to have healing powers. Far from being a place of prayer, this pond is where local boys splash around and run along with the steps playing games, making it a nice spot for people watching!
#16 KANDY – HOME OF BUDDHA’S TOOTH
Personally, I don’t really recommend Kandy as somewhere to stop other than to see the Temple of the Tooth and the summer festival associated with it. Not because I think it’s an unwelcoming place but because compared to what else there is to see it isn’t very special.
The Temple of the Tooth is the shrine which protects a tooth said to belong to Buddha. As such, it is a place of great significance to Sri Lankan Buddhists who must visit the temple at least once in their lifetime. The tooth is said to have been snatched from Buddha’s funeral pyre as he burnt, before being smuggled into Sri Lanka in the hair of a princess! Throughout time the tooth has been captured and taken back to India and then smuggled back to Sri Lanka again as people believe whoever possesses Buddha’s left canine tooth has the divine right to rule as king!
#17 AMBULUWAWA TOWER
Ambuluwawa is a magical spiral staircase wrapped around a 48m high tower with 360-degree views of the mountain valleys surrounding Gampola. The views are impressive, but you must decide for yourself if you feel it’s safe to climb the tower, as the entire complex (includes several other temples interconnected by underground tunnels) is not well maintained.
