THE ULTIMATE GUIDE FOR YOUR TRIP TO LISBON

EUROPEAN CITY GUIDE

TRAVEL

Your guide to the best bits of every neighbourhood in Lisbon. 33 locations to plan into your ultimate Lisbon itinerary. Including, photo locations, panoramic cafes, castles and street art.

How to get there: Plane or Train How long to spend there: 3-4 Days

It’s important to start with the full frontal fact that Lisbon is a city sprawled over seven hills. There is no avoiding the steep staircases, but they do nicely divide the city into sections for those of us who like to plan efficiently. So here are 33 places to plan into your ultimate itinerary. Including where to eat, relax and hang out in the evening. You won’t be short of ideas.

How to get around

Lisbon is very easy to get around with frequent trams and buses. Even better, the districts listed below are easily walkable. The only time I would suggest getting a bus or tram around the main neighbourhoods, is to get up to Principe Reale district. I had no problem buying tickets from the conductors of the trams and buses. If you’re queuing for a tram in a touristy area, people will come up to you trying to sell you tickets, or telling you you have to go to the store behind to get the ticket. You don’t!

TIP… Buy a Lisboa Card and get 10-50% off attractions in Lisbon and Sintra, plus free transport in the city and entrance to over 35 museums and monuments. (Worth it if you don’t want to walk far and want to see all the main attractions.)

The main area I gave my attention to was Alfama. It is arguably the prettiest area of the city and where I would stay if I visited again. That’s not to say I spent all my time there, as there are many other beautiful places to visit, but none as concentrated as Alfama.

| ALFAMA

Alfama gets its name from the Arabic for hot springs and thermal baths, Al-Hamma.

Alfama is the oldest part of the city, and also the richest historically. This is largely due to it being the longest inhabited, first by the Romans, then Visigoths, Moors and eventually the Portuguese. It’s also due to luck. Alfama was one of the few areas of Lisbon not destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. Even more surprisingly, the city government almost demolished it, to try and cope with the crime and poverty that had taken root there as the neighbourhood was slowly abandoned. Luckily this was prevented and the neighbourhood now prospers as the most authentic area in Lisbon.

Castello de Sao Jorge

The Castle of Sao Jorge, once home to Moorish Kings, has witnessed five violent exchanges of rulers of Lisbon, from the Romans to the siege held against Lisbon by the Spanish. The surviving fort sits at the highest point in Lisbon, easily allowing it to claim ownership of the best panoramas in the city. Wander through the cobbled courtyards and ancient walls, overhung with pine trees, to find the best viewpoints over the fortress walls. The mixture of shady Mediterranean pines and sun-baked ancient ruins makes it feel as if you have travelled to Greece, not Lisbon. This dream is made ever more real by gazing out on to the blue Tagus estuary. The only noise to disturb the peace up here above the city, are the noisy peacocks that roam freely around the castle.

I queued both times I visited the castle, neither time took more than 10 minutes, and both were at midday. (There were QR codes directing me to skip the line tickets, but none of the links worked and others said it was unbookable.) Entrance to the castle is €10 for adults and €5 for students/under 26. It stays open all year round between 9am and 7pm.

TIP… A few minutes walk away is the tower of Sao Jorge Castles’ church. For €5 you can climb the 50 steps to the bell tower and enjoy the view of Castello Barrio. Portuguese port/ wine is included in the price – which you can take up the tower.

Click here to read my post on Sintra’s Castle and Palaces.

Cafe Garage

Cafe Garagem is a more recent addition to the Garagem Theatre. The theatre is already well known by Lisboetas for showcasing experimental theatre and dance performances. Now you can wonder down to the cafe on the ground floor after a performance or just pop in for the views from the ceiling high windows. This cafe is in the top rankings for some of the best views in Lisbon and with an extensive outdoor terrace it shouldn’t be missed.

Miradouro do Monte

Lisbon has far too may incredible viewpoints to list, so here are a few of my favourites. First, Miradouro Da Senhora Do Monte. Otherwise known as Graça (which is actually another viewpoint just a few metres to the side). From here, you can admire the postcard views of the church, castle and the river, as you recline into the grassy bank.

Miradouro Sophia

Another beautiful viewpoint is Miradouro Sophia De Mello Breyner Andresen. The long name is to commemorate an award-wining and beautiful Portuguese poet, who used to wander up to this spot to admire the city which inspired her work. Whilst in the Graça neighbourhood, check out the impressive street art. Some of which, can be found just to the side of this terrace, down a side alley.

There is also an outdoor cafe up here (Esplanada de Graca), so why not grab a drink and take a seat on a bench for a lazy afternoon watching the city. The Convent of Graca frames the corner of the terrace and is free to enter. The entranceway in particular has some beautiful azulejos and is a peaceful place to get some shade.

Jardim da Cerca da Graça

I found this perfectly positioned city park by a happy accident, after following any streets that weren’t vertical. The park is dog friendly, and is a good way to patch up any feelings of missing your furry friends at home. It is also the location of a secret miradouro of Sao Jorge Castle. I use the word secret, as there were no other photographers or instagrammers in sight. Much easier to enjoy the views when you’re not surrounded by tour groups, as you are at the other miradouros.

Santa Luzia

Perhaps one of the most sought after miradouros in the city, as this one is carpeted in precious blue and white azulejos tiles. If you can study the tiles between the flocks of selfie takers, it depicts the story of Castelo de São Jorge being recaptured from the Moors.

Though many of the tiles are in need of repair, the balcony has a character of its own. The stone pillars hold up a trellis woven with vines, which frame the view below like draping curtains, creating the perfect romantic shot. As long as you come early in the morning, compared to the busy streets near by, this viewing point can feel very calm, hidden beneath a leafy green curtain with the sound of the fountain behind in the garden. The morning I came here early, I was lucky enough to share the view with a busker from my home country. The moment felt so magical, looking out to sea and listening to his folk songs. The only thing that spoils the view, is there are often great big cruise ships anchored in the port.

TIP… For another incredible view and an even larger array of tiles, go to the top of São Vicente de Fora Monastery. You won’t regret it!

Rua Norberto

Inside an archway, covering one of the many staircases rising out of the Alfama district is a funky mural painted in a comic strip style. It narrates the story of Lisbon’s history. I love this idea. I’ve always been a visual learner.

The archway was illustrated by Nuno Saraiva, whose work can be found all over the city. You may have already seen his popular painting of a Fado singer. I especially love that the final part of the comic was painted by his daughter!

Whilst the wonderful illustration covers the entire archway, it is also the entrance to a public toilet. Sadly people have recently graffitied the mural, but it’s still possible to appreciate the artwork. I was so gutted when I found out somebody had ruined this hard work.

Se de Lisboa

At the heart of Alfama, before you get to the top of the hill is Lisbon’s Cathedral. I didn’t go in, but I walked past it every day on my way up to the castle. The tram tracks wind their way around the cathedral entrance in just a way as to make it look like the train is coming out of the front door. I wasn’t able to get the shot I wanted, but the street leading up to the entrance is magical in itself.

The cathedral is the oldest church in the whole city, built in 872! (entrance is free)

Portas do Sol Terrace

I loved this little intersection of Alfama life. I sat here for a good hour just sketching and people watching at the outdoor cafe. It’s just around the corner from the largest miradouro of the neighbourhood, so a good spot to rest in peace after your walk up the hill.

The tree overhanging this terrace is magical and makes it impossible to take a bad photo.

Houses of Alfama

When in Alfama, it’s so important to get lost in the streets and go for a wonder. There are so many beautiful houses and corners to explore. I’ve shared some of my favourites below, to encourage you to go for a wonder too.

| CHIADO

Chiado is the historic and commercial centre of Lisbon. The area was rebuilt twice. Once after the 1755 earthquake, and then again after a department fire which spread in 1988. This is where you will find luxury shopping departments and the few monuments that survived both the earthquake and fire.

Pink Street

Lisbon’s Pink Street, as it’s now known, was originally the throbbing heart of the city’s red-light district. The street was painted pink back in 2011 to try and gentrify the area. It worked. Hipster cafes have taken over the shady brothels and sex shops of Rua Nova do Carvalho (mostly). Or at least, that’s how it seems from the family-friendly street. Behind some of the alleyways and closed doors, you can still find Lisbon’s wilder nightlife. Not to mention, a few sex shops which are now part of clubs and burlesque bars. Come out for an evening and try out some of Lisbon’s most exciting bars, such as Pensao Amor, or the ever-popular club, Music Box, tucked away under the bridge, opposite The Wine Point.

Unfortunately this is not my photo, but one from Unsplash by Sara Darcaj. I would like to have used my own, but the day I visited the street was filled with rubbish and bottles from the night before and didn’t look anything like this. Looking back, I wish I had taken a photo (at least it would be honest), but hopefully I caught it on a bad day.

Pink Street – Pensão Amor

Pensão Amor is proof that no amount of pink hipster paint can banish the pleasures of the night! Pensão Amor, which means ‘love hotel’, was once a run-down brothel, notorious for hosting the sailors coming into port. Luckily, you pay by the drink and not the hour anymore, as you would rack up quite a debt in this burlesque den. The bar’s burlesque theme is painted and hung on every surface, from the mirrors and chandeliers on the ceiling, to paintings of burlesque dancers and photographs of naked patrons (the original – not current!) leaning towards you from the wall. The velvet armchairs and low light candle mood effortlessly keep the sense of the building’s history alive and kicking. At the back of the bar, there is a pole dancing area and a sex shop. This is as close as you can get to Moulin Rouge fantasies outside of Paris.

Pink Street – Bookstore Bar Girl and Girl

Just opposite a club advertising lap dances, erotic shows and ‘non-stop’ stripping, is a quirky bookshop come bar that I am so sad to have missed out on. I pulled a group of friends inside to have a quick look, but we were already late for our Fado reservation and had to move on. When I go back to Lisbon, this will be my first stop of the evening.

Green Street

Personally, I prefer this one to Pink Street, possibly because I’m a sucker for lanterns and veggie cafes. As you can guess the name ‘green street’ is for the plants that the street’s residents tend too. To find the street you will have to search for Rua Silva, the streets actual name.

Cafe Janis

I’m not a cafe lounger at heart, but once I see a sneaky bit of greenery growing inside, I’m done for! You can find the lovely Cafe Janis in the Biarro Alto district, where it functions as a day long cafe/restaurant. Finally, I have found a restaurant happy to serve me breakfast for supper. Breakfast is my favourite meal of the day, it has all the carbs. I no longer need to stay at home to get my granola fix for supper. Yes Cafe Janis!

Cafe Janis has been described as ‘one of the most natural feeling cafes in Lisbon’ and I couldn’t agree more. The plants make it feel like you are sitting in a chic garden shed. With the doors left open, you can watch the world go by and listen as it wafts in through the cafe. It was such a calm space to rest.

Ascensor da Bica

Another form of public transport turned tourist attraction are the 19th-century yellow trams. In particular, the iconic Ascensor da Bica. This particular tram is a favourite, as it climbs one of the steepest hills in the city. There are steps on either side of the tram if you fancy a leg and bum workout. I feel a little sorry for the residents that live halfway up the hill and so can’t catch either end of the tram. Originally, there were two trams. One would wait at the bottom of the hill until the one at the top (the counterbalance) was heavy enough with water, then it would descend the hill, pulling the passenger tram up. I can’t even begin to imagine how time-consuming that must have been.

I ended up climbing the steps as the tram was not in service and was no where to be seen. In absence of my own photo, I have used Theodor Vasile’s from Unsplash.

If you’re joining the tram at the start of its journey, from the bottom of the hill, don’t expect to come across it easily. The tram is actually hidden inside a yellow house. The inside of which is covered in azulejo tiles, making this the most elaborate tram stop I’ve ever seen.

| BARRIO ALTO

Barrio Alto is the night district, this is where the party is. The street bars are so small the separate parties usually join together in the street. Here you can find a traditional night of Fado, or a more contemporary night beneath the street of bras.

Park Rooftop Bar

As soon as I hear a rooftop bar is decorated with trees and lots of greenery, a rooftop jungle, I get very excited. Strangely, this jungle can be found on the 6th floor of a multi-storey car park, in the nightlife district of Barrio Alto. Park serves up exotic cocktails, but keeps the dress code casual, creating a relaxed cosmopolitan vibe. So sink into your seat as you relax and watch the sunset roll down over the city skyline.

TIP… Beware, many people feel the way I do, and as Park doesn’t take reservations, I advise you to grab a seat early. It’s not exactly a hardship to sit on this balcony sipping cocktails, waiting for the sunset.

Fado

Fado is a Portuguese form of entertainment usually restricted to cafes and bars, that involves someone passionately playing a Portuguese guitar, whilst a lady sings a profoundly emotional song as though it were her dying words. I know! It all sounds a bit more than you bargained for when you sat down to have drinks, but apparently, it’s crucial to an authentic Lisbon experience.

Just beware, depending on the bar you choose, it could either be a few short impromptu performances, or a full 3-hour performance as you eat. Maybe dip your toe in first, before signing up for the full 3 hours. I honestly have to say, I sat through the impromptu performances, and although it was beautiful, I found myself waiting for it to be over so we could order more food and drink. It was a little like waiting for a seminar to finish, but that’s just me. The friends I went with really enjoyed it, so don’t take my personal experience as fact.

If it’s the impromptu sets you’re after, try out Tasco do Chico on Monday/Wednesday nights, and Povo or Tasca do Jaime for some truly wild impromptu moments. If you are ready for the entire theatre of Fado, try a few of the pricier tavernas such as Adega Machado, or Mesa de Frades in a former chapel.

| BAXIA

Another shopping district of central Lisbon, dotted with historical landmarks.

Santa Justa Elevator

In a city known as ‘The Seven Hills’, you would expect, or at least hope there are lifts and public transport. The Santa Justa Elevator is both of these. For this reason, you should definitely get a day pass to travel around Lisbon (€6.50 – which covers all forms of public transport, including the lift) instead of paying €5 separately for the elevator.

The lift was built by a student of Gustave Eiffel, as was the iconic Dom Luis Bridge in Porto. This strange wrought-iron, gothic tower rising from the centre of the street was designed to connect Baixa’s lower streets to the Largo do Carmo Square above. It’s the equivalent of 7 storeys higher than street level. At first, I was confused, as from the viewpoint in this photo, the lift appears to be floating, unconnected to higher street levels! But if you take a ride in the elevator and tear yourself away from the spectacular views, you enter a walkway connecting you to a quiet square all those metres above.

TIP… If you don’t mind the climb, you can walk up to the top of the elevator and enjoy the view from its upper balcony for free. It stays open all night and has great views of the ruined Carmo Convent, which hosts Lisbon Under the Stars events.

Casa do Alentejo

I don’t know about you guys, but this place has been catching my eye on Instagram for a while. It was designed in the style of a Moorish Palace, but is actually an events space. The name ‘Alentejo’ translates as ‘beyond the Tagus river’, meaning people from beyond the river, in the Alentejo region of Portugal. Originally, the house was a meeting place for people from this region, who had moved to Lisbon to create a new life for themselves.

When I first saw it, I thought, it’s going to be a fancy hotel and I won’t be allowed in. Not the case at all. Everyone is welcome. Locals often come here for ballroom dancing lessons, or to visit the cantina, which serves tasty dishes typical of the Alentejo region for just €11. There’s also a bar, where you can sit back and enjoy your exotic surroundings. Being completely truthful though, I’m coming here for the stunning courtyard.

Rua Augusta Arch

This triumphant archway seems to either welcome you into the city or out to sea. It was built to celebrate Lisbon’s recovery after the 1755 earthquake. For less than €4 you can climb to the top of the arch, where you are met with 360-degree views of the harbour and the famous tiled shopping street of Rua Augusta. Its a bargain!

The devastating earthquake destroyed roughly 90% of Lisbon’s buildings. The day of the earthquake was a holy day, this meant the majority of the population were in churches, where candles had been lit and flammable decorations hung everywhere. When the earthquake struck, many of the churches collapsed on the people inside. Those that didn’t collapse, caught fire, which carried on for 5 days! Survivors ran to the safety of the harbour, where they noticed the water had receded to reveal treasure in shipwrecks no one had noticed before. People rushed to collect it, not realising that a 9m high tsunami wave was about to rush through the city! Lisbon lost 75,000 people that day. Many people feared this must be the wrath of God, for this all to have happened on such a holy day. Easy to understand.

The King, who luckily had gone to the coast with his family for the religious holiday, escaped the destruction. However, for the rest of his life, he refused to live within stone walls, and moved himself and the royal court to a complex of tented pavilions!

| PRINICPE REALE

Money on the hill, Principe Reale is known for 19th century mansions turned multi-million apartments and chic boutiques.

Jardim do Principe Reale

Principe Reale Garden’s focus point is a tree that has been growing on this spot for over 150 years. Its canopy has now grown to 20m in diameter and is the pride of the community. At one time, there was an open air public library held beneath it. Unfortunately, Lisbon closed its ‘library gardens’ in 1980. Such a shame. Despite this, the tree’s literary past is revived each year during the Lisbon Poetry Festival, as extracts from poems are hung from the branches, creating a living library for anyone to enjoy. The park also springs to life every Saturday for a farmers market, as well as a popular antique market every last Saturday of the month.

I was at a bit of a loose end when I went to this park, it was my last day in the city and I wasn’t sure what to do. I decided instead of getting the tram back, I would walk back to the riverfront. I’m very glad I did, as there were a lot of beautiful houses on my way back down (many within 200m of the park).

Lost in Esplanada

Another rooftop jungle to adore in Lisbon, is Lost In Esplanada. This bar is similar to Park, except with a more eccentric theme. Cloth-covered tea-light lanterns hang from the trees, bright coloured benches are covered in Indian cushions and patchwork sari parasols create the experience of an Indian summer, perched on the rooftops of Lisbon! At the back of the terrace is an adjoining shop, selling similar items, including Indian block printed clothing.

Lisbon’s Underground Water Temples

One of Lisbon’s lesser-known attractions is its underground water reservoirs. Usually, they are located directly beneath the city parks. If standing on floating platforms underneath the city gardens isn’t magical enough, you could also go on a tour of Lisbon’s underground tunnels and overground aqueduct, that takes you to the abandoned restaurant in Monsanto Park (later in the post).

Anyway, let’s talk about the reservoirs. The two most beautiful examples, are Reservatório Mãe D’água (Mother of Water), underneath Amoreira Garden and The Patriarchal Reservoir, under Principe Real Garden. The Mother of Water Reservoir is fed through a white karst fountain, emerging from the wall of the temple. It’s such an unexpectedly serene location that it is has been used as a concert venue, art gallery and even to host a fashion show. I imagine, the echos bouncing from the walls during the concert, and the reflections on the water surrounding the platform conjure a magical experience for any event.

The other main reservoir people visit is the Patriarchal Reservoir, which is similar, except instead of four stone pillars, tens are surrounding the platform. Also, the tiles beneath the water are painted blue, creating a very different atmosphere, and a more exotic photo!

If you like the sound of these two secret temples, I strongly suggest you visit another of Lisbon’s most overlooked attractions. The 11mile long Águas Livres Aqueduct, which brought Lisbon’s entire population its first clean drinking water! Even more amazingly, the aqueduct withstood the 1755 earthquake. The best part is that you can walk on it, giving you a unique view of the city and a very dramatic photo.

For the macabre among you, this aqueduct is famous for another reason. A serial killer, Diogo Alves, forged a key to the aqueduct entrance and over the years, brought his 70 victims up here, to throw them from the aqueduct! He managed to get away with it for so long, as the country was going through a political and financial crisis that the police assumed caused the rise in suicide.

Diogo was eventually caught after the aqueduct was finally closed to deter ‘suicides’. As a consequence, he and his gang started robbing and killing their victims in their own homes. For those of you fascinated by this story, Diogo’s head has been perfectly preserved in the Lisbon Museum of Medicine. His expression is disturbingly calm!

Secret Garden Tunnel

I came across this secret little gem tucked away down a side street of Barrio Alto when I was researching the secret gardens of Lisbon. Páteo João e Teresa is a secretive community garden just off of Rua Nova da Piedade, at number 60, through a large archway. Please be respectful, as it is a community garden and not a tourist attraction.

| FURTHER FROM TOWN

Belem Tower
(40min tram ride from city centre centre)

Did you know there is such a thing as ‘The 7 Wonders of Portugal‘? I didn’t either, till now. It turns out that Belem Tower is one of them. Even more strangely, the walls of the tower are peppered in tiny rhinoceros carvings. I can’t say I noticed though.

The tower was built to replace a large ship in the harbour, as a means of defence against attacks. At one time, the tower rested upon an island, guarding the port of Lisbon. However, after the fateful earthquake in 1755, the course of the river shifted, and the island disintegrated, merging with the mainland. Later, it was used as a prison for political prisoners.

The tower is open from 10am till 18.30pm in the summer and until 17.30pm in the winter. Tickets can be bought from the permanent official stall just 30 yards from the tower, in the park behind. Tickets cost €6.

TIP… Either be the first or the last, as then you will have the tower largely to yourself. Enjoy the beach while you wait.

Click here to read my post on a day trip to Cascais if you enjoyed being by the sea at Belem.

Make sure to buy a Pasteis de Belem before you head back in to the city. You can buy them warm from the Belem cafe just 100 yards from the tower. They are like a warm custard tart with flakey pastry. Don’t fear, they’re not like the sad little custard tarts we are used to in England. These are vanilla-ery and far more of a treat. Careful how you go though as they are rich.

Jardim da Quinta dos Azulejos
(45min bus ride from city centre centre)

This is the very best of the secret gardens in Lisbon. Jardim da Quinta dos Azulejos, which means ‘The Estate of Azulejos’ is unheard of by most tourists, let alone seen. It’s hidden behind the walls of Colegio Manuel Bernardes. Although you do need permission to enter, you can ask the porter on the day, or email the day before. Plus, entrance is free.

Though it’s not as simple as just walking in, this garden is well worth the effort. Not only is the garden decorated with tiled alcoves and seats, but the tiles tell the stories of Greek mythology. Even more uniquely, the tiles are not just blue and white, but in vivid pinks and greens. If you go during the spring, the garden is filled with white orchids, whose petals dapple the floor like a white carpet.

TIP… Though it’s a bus ride from the city center, the neighbourhood alone is worth a wander, as the district of Lumiar was originally home to many of the Lisbon’s elite, whose grand mansions remain today.

Bordallo Pinheiro Garden
(25min bus ride from city centre centre)

If you read my Porto Post, you’ll know this art style already. However, the artist actually lives in Lisbon. Bordalo II, as he is known, likes to reimagine and repurpose long-life materials such as plastic and turn them into works of art. His goal is to bring environmental issues of waste to people’s attention through eye-catching street art.

The original Bordalo, his grandfather, was an artist too. Instead of using plastic and focusing on environmental issues, he used cartoons and ceramics to satirise the politics of his time. You can visit the surreal Bordalo Pinheiro Gardens to experience his art for yourself. It’s a kind of sculpture park of comedy. Giant ceramic animals jump out at you from the bushes, ants trying to catch another ant about to fall off the wall and even life-sized ceramic monkeys hanging from the trees!

Prazeres Cemetery
(18min bus ride from city centre centre)

I know, I know! Why am I suggesting you should visit a cemetery. No, I’m not trying to make you into a tombstone tourist. Just hear me out.

For those of you interested in gothic architecture and more unusual locations, this is a beautiful spot to visit. The tree lined avenues of the cemetery, known as ‘The 70 Streets’, guide you past some of the most elaborate tombs I’ll bet you’ve ever seen. Many of these resting places are actually designed to look like miniature houses or chapels. Some are even decorated with curtains, which are often pulled back so that you can peer inside and see the coffins (bit much). Some of the larger mausoleums hold up to 200 family members!

I know some of you may feel you have entered a ‘city of the dead’, but let me reassure you, the name of this cemetery translates as ‘Cemetery of Joy‘. The most ornate tombs in ‘The Cemetery of Joy’ are found down the stairs on the south side of the cemetery (its a big place). If that’s not enough, from the edge of the cemetery you have views out on to the ‘Golden Gate Bridge of Lisbon’.

National Museum of Azulejos
(15min bus ride from city centre centre)

The National Tile Museum of Lisbon is secreted away over three floors of a Baroque convent, still standing at over 600 years old. The convent interior is completely tiled, the greatest collections can be found in the Chapel and the cloisters. This unparalleled collection of azulejo tiles, tells the story of their creation throughout Portuguese history. See if you can follow their journey across the walls.

Monsanto Abandoned Viewpoint
(45min bus ride and walk from city centre centre)

This is one of the stranger and less talked about viewpoints in Lisbon. The unusual circular building watching over the city was once a luxury restaurant.

The panoramic restaurant opened its doors in 1969, after much hype, and quickly became the talk of Lisbon. That was until the restaurant closed in 2001 as a result of miss-management and financial difficulties. How did this 32-year-old business suddenly collapse?

For a long time, the abandoned restaurant was an embarrassment to the city, but remained as it was. Smashed glass and other trash filled the site, as it became vandalised. The abandoned restaurant became an eyesore, looking down over the city from the top of Monsanto Park. The city council didn’t know what to do with it. They estimated refurbishment would cost €20 million! So instead, they cleared away all the trash and glass and secured parts of the building that could be dangerous. Thus, creating what you see now.

It has recently become a cult attraction and art space. Festivals are even held here. The central spiral staircase leading you to the viewpoint certainly adds to the curious appeal, as well as the large greenhouse roof fixed to the back of the restaurant. If you take photos, be careful not to point your camera at the military base next door. They will not be happy (sometimes they have guards on the site).

LX Factory
(25min bus ride from city centre centre)

This former industrial park/factory is now a veritable goodie box of hipster hangouts! So do up that top button, slap on your moustache and fake glasses and grab a skinny chai latte.

There is a lot about hipster culture that people find irritating, but one thing I can’t deny is my love for funky and weird cafe spaces. If you’re like me, sidestep the painfully hipster home furnishing store and car-park that says ‘hello world’ and head to some of these places instead…

One | Lisbon’s street art doesn’t end at the river. Some of the biggest murals in the city live in the LX Factory.

Two | Sweet tooths need look no further than LXeese Cake, a cheesecake cafe which never fails to make the cheese creamy and the base buttery biscuity. Why isn’t all cheesecake held to this standard? There is also a chocolate cafe dripping in everything cocoa beans.

Three | The Underground Village, which is actually an above-ground cafe, in a raised double-decker bus and stacked containers.

Four | I’ll include the Ler Devagar bookshop even though I don’t find it that interesting. It has become a popular Lisbon Instagram spot, but personally, I’m not a fan of minimalist white backdrops in my photos! I want clutter and colour. For those of you who don’t know the bookshop I’m talking about, it’s the bookshop with a bike hanging in the middle.

Five | Last, but certainly not least, Rio Maravilha rooftop bar. This is the only rooftop bar in Lisbon that can claim Lisbon’s version of the Golden Gate Bridge and a giant statue of a patchwork woman (who looks like Elmo the Elephant painted her!) as its backdrop.

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OLIVIA CASHMAN – LIVESCAPES

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