THE ULTIMATE BULGARIAN ROAD TRIP

(At the moment this is an aspirational road trip and not one I have taken, so I would like to thank Dannyel Spasov on Unsplash and those credited below for their great photos.)

Road Tripping in Bulgaria…

A large part of Bulgaria’s charm is how untouched it is by mass tourism. Don’t be surprised if you are the only international tourist at time. As a consequence, the tourist infrastructure doesn’t exist and public transport is patchy. On top of that, its a land of natural wonders, which aren’t always close to a town or city. So a car or van it is. Just to give you an idea, if you wanted to get to the first place on this itinerary (one of the top attractions in Bulgaria) with public transport there would be two options:

Train – There are three trains from Sofia a day in this direction, each take 4 hours. They will drop you at the nearest station, from which you will have to get a taxi for 12km.

Bus – There is a bus once a day from Sofia, in the late afternoon. It drops you in the town next to the fortress (1.5km from town)

Hiring a car, or bringing your own is starting to look pretty good right about now. If you want to sleep in your car/van, its best to be aware of the park up rules in Bulgaria. Whilst wild camping is officially prohibited, it is often tolerated (along as its not in a nature park or on private property), so if you need to rest out in the wild for a night it shouldn’t be too much of a problem. Saying that, if you use the Campy or Camp4Night app, there are a reasonable amount of car parks or lay-bys to pitch up in for the night. There are also many beautiful guest houses and airbnbs if you need a break from your car.

Now that’s sorted, let’s add to the itinerary.

| BELOGRADCHIK FORTRESS

The Romans chose this spot carefully, for its mountain-sized rocks, which meant only two sides of the fortress had to be built from scratch and it could be camouflaged. After you have recovered from climbing the steps to the entrance, clamber up a series of steep ladders to the highest point of the fortress, ‘the first slab’ and enjoy the panoramic views of Bulgaria stretching out before you and the stone forest below. A stone forest which reaches around for 30km, with pinnacles soaring to 200m.

Make sure you explore the rocks and not just the fortress. There are many panoramic viewpoints to find, each with their own names, such as Gorilla Rock, The Goddess Mother or The Three Monks. Make the most of the view by grabbing a bite at Mislen Kamak restaurant, whose outdoor terrace has sweeping views of the rocks for miles. On your way out of town, take all the windy road you want, there are more amazing formations along the ridge, including Lepenitsa Cave.

TIP…The fortress is open every day from 9am – 6pm (5pm in winter). Entrance for adults is about €3 and parking is €1

| PROHODNA CAVE

Deep in the Iskar karst valley are ‘The Eyes of God’ or the ‘Eyes of the Devil’ depending on your point of view. In the daytime, the ‘eyes’ cast a unique shadow and play of light on the cave floor, highlighting just how deep within the cave you are. There is a similar effect during full moons, though at night, the better view is through the eyes, to the moon. If you visit in the warmer months, you will see a small cascade of water that falls from the forest floor above. Other than photography and a rewarding hike, this enormous cavern is also great for thrill seekers who love abseiling.

There is parking within 100m of the entrance, so its not exactly strenuous. To top it off, entrance is free.

| SOFIA CITY

Sofia is not a moneyed city, so don’t expect the gentrified artsy areas you might normally gravitate towards in western cities. Instead, spend an afternoon visiting the cathedrals, thermal baths and cafes. As always, I prefer the quirky sides of a city. Not all cities have one, but Sofia does. A collection of quirky underground bars hidden in sheds or down alleyways, this is the best way to have an authentic local experience. The top 2 are The Apartment and The Candle Bar. Both pretty self-explanatory names, which compensate for how lost you will get trying to find them. There are also a few cafes you can relax in and take a break from the road, try SunMoon, Made in Home or Made in Blue.

If you want to keep on the move, go on a hunt for the house shaped like a snail or the monument to the Soviet army which has been transformed into the Marvel Avengers. If you still aren’t swayed by these oddities then visit the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.

| VITOSHA’S GOLDEN BRIDGES

No bridges here, just rocks and then a few more rocks. So why the name? The name comes from the golden lichen that grows on these glacial boulders on Vitosha Mountain. The river of boulders is over 2km long and a worthy hike of any nature lover or those who take pleasure in the unusual sights mother nature likes to throw at us. Just to give you some perspective, each boulder is roughly the size of a person! It also offers a great view of Sofia far below.

TIP…If you want to drive up, it takes about 25 minutes from Sofia’s outskirts to the top. The road is wide but not very well maintained, so keep an eye out for potholes.

| RILA MONASTERY

Rila Monastery is one of Bulgaria’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites and it’s easy to see why. Even better, I’ve recently found out that you can stay here for a night. It’s no Airbnb, but if you want to have a sleepover in a beautiful hand-painted monastery look no further. It is not only the UNESCO World Heritage list but also on the Bulgarian banknotes.

The monastery itself has been rebuilt more times that Mostar Bridge, if that’s possible. As it is today, there are 300 rooms, 110 cells for the monks, 40 drawing rooms, 4 chapels and a unique library housing ancient scrolls. The Beetlejuice archways set against the colourful frescos of heaven and hell are what make this monastery so unique, that, and that it is on top of the highest mountain in Bulgaria. There are also permanent exhibitions of native Bulgarian art and icon paintings. As always, be respectful, the monks live here and practice their religion daily.

The monastery is open every day from 7am to 8pm, entrance is free. The tower and museum are only open in the summer and cost about €2 each. To get there its just under a 2 hour drive from Sofia city centre. Along the way you will pass a few other places on this itinerary, such as the Stob Pyramids, which will split up your driving time. If you’re feeling brave, take a detour to Kalin Dam, the hairpin bends on the way offer jaw-dropping views.

TIP… If you want to stay at the monastery you need to book on the phone. Call +359 70542208, ideally with a translator or with a Bulgarian friend. Price per night is €13 – cash only.

| THE SEVEN RILA LAKES

The seven glacial lakes atop Rila Mountain, a mighty 2,100 to 2,500m above sea level are beautiful in themselves, but also for their appearance of floating on the mountain’s edge. I highly recommend hiking to the Lake Peak Point to get a view of all seven. Each lake has its own name:

Salzata (The Tear), named for its clear waters. Bliznaka (The Twin), named for the two connected lakes 

Babreka (The Kidney), named for its resemblance to a kidney. Okoto (The Eye), named for its eye shape

Trilistnika (The Trefoil), named for its resemblance to a three-leafed clover

Ribnoto (Fish lake), named for how shallow it is.  Dolnoto Ezero (The Lower lake), for obvious reasons

Unless you have plenty of stamina for an 8 hour hike (one way) I would suggest taking the cable car lift, just a 10 minute walk from Pionerska Hut in . From the upper lift you can walk to both Skakavitsa waterfall and the lakes. The waterfall is a short walk from the upper station and the highest point of the lakes, known as Lake Peak, is just over an hour’s walk.

TIP… The cable car is about €9 and only accepts cash. Open between 8.30am and 4.30pm every day except Monday when it opens at 12pm.

| ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF IVANOVO

Another of Bulgaria’s UNESCO World Heritage Sites are the Rock-Hewn Churches of Ivanovo. The churches are built deep into the walls of the Roussenski Lom River Valley by the first hermits in the 12th century. What makes them so special, are the murals and icons painted directly on to the rock, many of which have survived for nearly 1000 years and are still fairly vivid. From the car park below, you can either climb the rock-hewn staircase to the top or take the forest trail which leads you on to a panoramic rock plateau.

To get there, drive to the small town of Ivanovo, from which it is an 8 minute drive to the visitors car park.

Ivanovski Skalni Tsarkvi 20110714-31.JPG by Hans A. Rosbach is licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0.

| THE CANYON OF WATERFALLS

The most popular trail, the Eco-Trail, follows the Elonska River and its 46 individual waterfalls. The circular trail is just over 6km long and guides you through the forest, over wooden walkways and tree roots. It’s not at all strenuous, but a nice way to spend an afternoon by the water.

| MELNIK & ROHZEN PYRAMIDS

Melnik village in the Pirin Valley is encased by a mountain range of natural sand pyramids which stretch for whopping 50km squared. You would be forgiven for thinking you are in Cappadocia. The Karlanovo area of pyramids is the most striking. Whilst in Melnik make sure you visit the Kordopulov House, the largest of Bulgaria’s restored house museums, to see classic Bulgarian Revival style mixed with Venetian stained glass. At the end of the tour you make your way into the seller, where you get handed a glass of wine, for which the region is well known.

Whilst in the area, head down the road by car for 9 minutes and you will be in the equally charming town of Rozhen. The town’s monastery is an attraction in itself, but it also has a trail behind it that leads to a viewing point of the sand pyramids.

| STOB EARTH PYRAMIDS

In a country of so many fascinating karst formations its not surprising that there are valleys of sand pyramids. The southernmost of which are the Stob Earth Pyramids just a 15 minute walk outside the village of Stob. The hoodoos, as they are technically named can tower up to 12m above the ground. It costs €1 to enter the park, after which you can climb the 30 minute hike to the first viewing platform, from then onwards the paths get thinner and more sketchy, so take care as the rock here is naturally very crumbly.

TIP… If you visit after 5pm, there is no one in the ticket hut and you can go in for free.

TIP…Just a 5 minute drive away is the Unofficial Junk Museum which has a vast amount of Bulgaria’s Communist Era cars, home appliances and decorations. Strange but fascinating.

| ARDA RIVER

Like all good things in Bulgaria, the Arda river begins in the Rhodope Mountains, before continuing to Greece, 280km down the river. The rivers’ many meanders are what make this Bulgarian natural wonder so enchanting. There are many perfectly placed viewpoints, however, be prepared to go as far as you can off the beaten path. For the best views of the serpentine river go to the Horseshoe Bend, the sand beach near Madzharova village or the forested meander near the Kardzhali Dam. You will have to drive along almost a third of the river between these points, but it will be worth it.

| PLOVDIV OLD TOWN

This fairytale architectural reserve sitting on top of three hills has been fought over by many empires throughout history. You will understand why after walking down its cobbled streets for a few minutes. Not only coveted in the past, but also now, it was recently dubbed the 2019 European Capital of Culture. Like me, you’re probably wondering why you haven’t heard of this city till now, especially considering its historical status as the 6th oldest city in the world.

So how did it earn its status? Well, not counting the museums, rich cultural heritage, ancient temples and Orthodox churches, the highlight for me were the Bulgarian Revival houses. Bulgarian Revival style is similar to the Weasley Burrow. Many houses use the ground floor as a workshop, whilst the 1st floor overhangs the street creating tunnels between houses. Any additions are elaborately decorated and carved, including large wooden box windows and curiously sloping roofs. I don’t know about you, but to me, this architectural style is the stuff of fairytales.

TIP… Climb to Nebet Tepe Ruins for a panoramic view of the old Town at sunset.

TIP… About an hour outside of Plovdiv is a rock formation that looks like an enormous marble pinched between two rock walls. It’s called Karadzhov Kamak.

| RAYSKOTO PRASKALO WATERFALL

You’ve found it! The highest waterfall in the Balkans, at 124m high. Rayskoto Praskalo translates as ‘Heavenly Spray’. Though, its decidedly more heavenly in the spring and autumn when there is a heavier flow of water. On the outskirts of Kalofer Village is the Panitzite starting point where you can park your car. From here it is a 2 hour hike to Rai Hut. Rai Hut or ‘Heaven Hut‘ (120 roomed hut), which it certainly is at €6 per night, is only a 20 minute walk from the falls. The hike to the falls will take you through woodlands and open meadows with wild horses. Stay at the hut overnight and make a day of it.

| BUZLUDGA RUIN

This ghost of a Communist past perches ominously on top of the mountain, more foreboding than it was in its 1980s heyday. The monument to the Bulgarian Soviet Friendship was designed as a meeting hall for political rallies, but is now an Urbex mecca. This colossal concrete monster has never fit in with the surrounding landscape, but it does command amazing views. Frustratingly, it is now guarded by security officers and all the entrances have been welded shut. What a waste. Still, an impressive structure, as is the Staircase of Victors which leads to it.

| KOVACHEVITSA

In the heart of the Rhodope Mountains is a small village of 28 year-round residents, called Kovachevitsa. The village is unique for its style of buildings which use stacked stones to build the houses without any mortar, often topped with wooden balconies. This magical village is well known in Bulgaria and has even been used as a set for 20 films (mostly Bulgarian). Take a stroll around the village’s alleys, but make sure to stop at the beautiful St. Nikolas Church and its largely hand painted interior. It can be tricky to find your way around the tightly woven alleys, which lends itself to a local saying that the houses are so close to one another, you could walk the length of the village on the rooftops.

There is only one road in to the mountain village, which you can follow after you have passed through the picturesque villages of Leshten and Gorno Dryanovo.

| KRUSHUNA POOLS

The largest travertine terrace pools in the country, edged by mossy rocks interspersed with cascades and all originating from a spring in a hidden cave. Wooden and stone bridges crisscross over the terraces, allowing you to get closer to the pools without getting in. I promise it’s real. Locals come here to bathe for the water’s healing qualities and enjoy the 58 degrees pools. Just make sure you need healing during the week and not at the weekend if you are visiting in the summer.

The pools are an easy 10 minute walk from Krushuna village.

| DEVETASHKA CAVE

A 20 minute drive West of Krushna Pools you can climb down to Devetashka Cave complex. This is the most impressive of the karst caves in Bulgaria. Its roof has seven collapsed ceilings creating the illusion of tangled arches. A small river runs through the cave system giving life to the little forest inside, so luscious and light you forget you are underground. You would never know it had been a secret military storage location for oil in the 1950s! Unfortunately, it was also used in a scene in Expendables 2 in which Sylvester Stallone crashes a plane into the cave. It was later decided the film had broken Bulgaria’s environmental laws as the filming had harmed the 33 species of bats who call it home.

There is a car park 200m from the entrance to the cave and tickets are as little as €1.50.

| EMEN CANYON

I get so excited when I see those photogenic little wooden walkways or bridges in a forest or by a lake. Which is what the entire trail through Emen Gorge is practically held up by. The eco-trail was the first ever inaugurated in Bulgaria and takes about 3 hours to complete, weaving between upper and lower walkways which can only be passed in single file. Do use your own judgement though, as the trail is not well maintained and the bridges are not always secure.

The most beautiful part of the gorge trail is when it passes a hidden waterfall cascading into a natural pool named ‘Girl’s Leap’. So named because folk tales say three women jumped from the falls rather than be caught by Ottoman soldiers. You are allowed to swim in the pools, so don’t forget your costume.

The canyon lies 25km west of the the beautiful town of Veliko Tarnovo, which we will visit later in this post. There is a car park near the cave, but apparently its better to park in Emen town and make your way from there.

Old Man Resting by Ihrielle Ascet is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

| PINK LAKES OF BURGAS

On Bulgaria’s Black Coast is Atanasovsko Lake or The Pink Lake. Its a salt lake and healing black mud bath in one. Finally, a pink lake you are allowed to swim in, with the added benefit of age defying properties. The lake gets its hue from the saline levels, but mainly the salt shrimp who spend their lives in this healing pool. Be sure to use a bikini or costume you don’t adore, it won’t be the same again after going in this lake, especially if you take the beauty regime seriously and let all that goop soak in for half an hour while it dries. Don’t worry there are on-site showers, but the best thing to do is cover yourself in black mud and walk in to the Black Sea, just 100m from the lake entrance. Come whilst it’s still unknown to the majority of international tourists and the parking is just 50c an hour.

TIP… The water is only 30cm deep, its meant for relaxing rather than swimming.

Atanasovsko Lake by Professor Caretaker is licensed under CC BY SA 4.0. 

| TYULENOVO

A small cove on Bulgaria’s Black Sea Coast with interesting rock formations and exciting cliff-jumping spots. For those of you backpacking or road-tripping, this area has quite a few campsites where you can stretch your legs and catch a refreshing sea breeze. Come and explore this cove before another photogenic sea-bridge collapses.

| TRIGRAD DRIVE

Trigrad Gorge is a scary one lane gorge road clinging to the sheer cliffs, but its beauty is worth it. In places the cliffs above are so narrow that they keep daylight from the road. Don’t drive here at night without serviced headlights. Cliffs on one side and a gushing river on the other, which channels into a cave named ‘The Devil’s Throat’, before plummeting 42 metres and meeting you again further along the tarmac. Just pray you don’t meet a flock of sheep or herd of cows along the road.

Trigrad gorge gruev by Nikola Gruev is licensed under CC BY SA 3.0

| SHIROKA POLYANA

Roughly 2 hours north of Trigrad Gorge is Shiroka Polyana reservoir, a man made lake surrounded by dense pine forests. The lake and its islands owe their beauty to the deep gullies, once mountain valleys before the area was flooded. The ‘islands’ you see are intact the peaks , rising above the surface of the water. Hire a kayak or bring your own to explore the islands and the lake’s shoreline.

| ASEN’S FORTRESS

The highlight of the Asenovgrad region, Asen’s fortress has been used as a defence since the 5th century. After a family feud in 1402 the fortress was razed to ground, all except for the church which remains today. The presence of the church and its bell tower means Asen is included in the Holy Mountains of the Rhodopes.

The compact group of cliffs rise vertically out of the rock bed and provide a natural fortification on three sides of the once fortress. The best way to see it is to take the Asenovgrad-Smolyan Scenic Road, just south of the town and follow it for three miles up to the visitors carpark. From there you can walk the dizzyingly narrow path to the church. Entrance is €1.50 and is open Wednesday till Sunday from 8am to 5pm. It is only open to worshippers is on a Sunday as believe it or not, the church is still an active place of worship.

TIP… A 25 minute drive from Plovdiv, the fortress is an ideal next stop.

| OVECH FORTRESS

An ancient fortress watches over the modern city far below, from its rocky ship-shaped plateau. The reason this fortress looks so dramatic, is that even though a city has been developed at its foot, it stays in isolation due to the swathes of forest climbing its’ vertical slopes. Though the wooden walkway and views from the plateau bridge are the main attraction, you can also see the ruins of the fortress prisons. Entering via the North entrance (main entrance) will take you across the wooden walkway, while the Eastern entrance will open on to the original rock-hewn staircase to the plateau. Go carefully on the steps as they are worn smooth and are slippery.

Parking is available at the bottom of the hill and at the top, but the road to the top is essentially a dirt track. Parking is €2 but entrance is free.

| VELIKO TÁRNOVO

Veliko Tarnovo is a fairytale destination that is bound to steal your heart. Everyone who has ever made a Bulgarian bucket list has placed this former capital city in the top 3 places to see in the entire country. It is fast becoming an Instagram favourite, for better or for worse. Encircled by forest and fortified walls of the Tsarevets Fortress, Veliko is perched on top of three hills above a horseshoe-shaped river valley below. Unexpectedly, Veliko Tárnovo is also a bit of a street art haven. It’s not a big city, so enjoy getting lost, make a detour to Gerko Street where you will be transported back in time, lined with timber balconies draped in ivy. Last but not least, Varusha, the revival district of the city, which you can find across the river, splashed on every postcard of Veliko ever printed.

TIP… A few beautiful villages nearby are Zheravna, Etara and Bozhentsi.

| BOLATA COVE

Once a military exclusion zone, the beach is still catching up on lost time. Bolata Cove is one of the few places along Bulgaria’s Black Sea coast that has sandy beaches and not pebbles. Making it a firm favourite amongst locals, who also enjoy diving in the bay, where the clear water is protected from waves by the two piers. It was even voted a top European destination by the European Best Destinations site.

The narrow track down to the beach winds on for 2km, so bring the car or good shoes.

| SHIPKA MEMORIAL CHURCH

Just above the town of Shipka, in a clearing in the forest is this vibrant memorial church. Built to remember the Bulgarian and Russian soldiers who lost their lives in the valley below, fighting to defend the town against the Turkish Empire’s expansion. The bells themselves are made from battle cartridges, collected from the fields and weigh a mighty 12 tonnes. The style of the church itself is a glittering Russian Orthodox Cathedral in miniature, complete with gold onion domes and intricate detailing. I have to say though, the colouring is little Barbie-ish.

TIP…Parking and entrance is free. The church is open between 8:30am to 5:30pm and asks visitors to cover themselves.

| DEVIL’S BRIDGE

If you haven’t come acrosss Europe’s Devil Bridges before then you’re in for a photographic treat. So called because their high arches seem to defy gravity in an ungodly way. However, local superstition has also played a part in this bridge’s name. They say the reflection of the middle arch on the water creates the shape of an eye. You guessed it, the Devil’s Eye. Others say you can find the Devil’s footprint on the rocks below.

Like all good Bulgarian folklore there are some naughty Turks involved. The legend goes that a Turkish soldier fell in love with a beautiful local girl. He chased her to the bridge, hoping to kidnap her, but before he could catch her, he saw the Devil’s reflection in the water and ran away.

TIP…You can find the bridge crossing the River Arda near the village of Ardino

Dyavolski Most/Devil’s Bridge/Şeytan Köprüsü near Ardino, Bulgaria by ali eminov is licensed under CC BY-NC 2.0.

|BALCHIK PALACE

Built on the edge of the resort town of Balchik, the palace’s actual names is The Quiet Nest Palace. It’s the perfect name for such a tranquil place. The gardens are filled with Bulgarian roses and manicured gardens, which lead up to the water’s edge. Spend time strolling around the garden, under the orange trellises and beneath the overhanging canopy of the garden’s mature trees. That was the intention of the original owner, Queen Marie of Romania.

TIP…The palace is open all year round. In the summer it opens at 8am and closes at 8pm. Entrance is €11 which includes the palace and garden.

| RAVADINOVO CASTLE

Think Disneyland, but more tasteful, and in Bulgaria. Let’s set the tone of this castle by first mentioning its’ name, ‘In love with the wind’. This eccentric castle was designed and built in 1996 by Georgi Kostadinov Tumpalov alongside his family and neighbours. He wanted to create something, that could only be found in fairytales.

Though you can’t visit the interior of the castle, the gardens and grounds are so extensive I would still recommend taking a few hours to see it all. You never know, you may see Georgi wandering the grounds. He does live there after all.

TIP…Tickets are €10, but if you buy them online there is a 10% discount.

If you love fairytale castles, here are Sintra’s magical palaces and castles

The Fairy Castle in Ravadinovo by dzhingarov is licensed under CC BY 2.0.