YES, RIGA IS WORTH A VISIT

| Where is Riga?

Riga is the capital city of Latvia, nestled on the country’s west coast. A staggering one-third of the entire Latvian population lives in the city.

Flight time from London: 2h 35mins

1 | Art Deco

I love the Art Nouveau style, but I have never seen any facades quite like the ones in Riga. Most facades in western Europe have floral designs, however, nearly all 800 of Riga’s designs centre around the female form. Though I prefer floral designs, Riga’s are still very impressive.

Some of my favourites include the ‘Keyhole Door’, where you are greeted by two beauties leaning either side of the entrance (Vilandes Iela 11). On the corner of Kalēju Iela, at number 23 is the only floral design, and the most vibrant facade in the entire city. You can’t miss it, its emblazoned with an enormous sun and is currently a luxury watch shop. I find this facade calming compared to the contorted faces on the other buildings.

Click here to read about Munich’s Art Nouveau Houses

2 | The Three Brothers

The three houses were supposedly built by three brothers. Each have a roughly 200 year age gap between them, each celebrating a unique architectural style. They don’t really go together, but that’s part of the attraction. They are the oldest medieval dwellings in the city. Of the the three brothers, the white house is the oldest, then the yellow one, and the thinest is the youngest. The last is also the location of the Museum of Latvian Architecture.

Three Brothers – Riga Old Town by kawanet is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

3 | Churches

Despite having survived both world wars, the Nativity of Christ Cathedral was stripped of its icons by the soviets in the 1960s. They tore down the crucifixes, melted the bells and transformed the cathedral into a planetarium. It would become known as the Republic House of Knowledge. As you will find out, the cathedral has since been fully restored and sanctified once more. Though the ceiling still looks like a planetarium to me.

4 | House of the Blackheads

In Riga’s main square, it’s hard to miss this towering red facade. The strangely named 14th century building was built for the Brotherhood of the Blackheads. A society for unmarried merchants, shipowners and foreigners in Riga. The extravagant halls within, are now a venue for concerts and art shows. Entrance is just €6.

Click here to read about the Brotherhood’s beautiful doorway in Tallinn

5 | Livu Laukums Square

Once the site of the Riga river, which narrowed and eventually became paved over. Now a great meeting place in the centre of the city, with outdoor cafes surrounding the flower beds.

6 | Black Magic Apothecary Bar

This is a true gem of Riga’s old town. Behind the apothecary shop front is an 18th century bar cluttered with herbs and bottled potions, even a fake crocodile (I hope its fake). If you prize open the book case, you will find the secret doorway to more seating downstairs. Below street level, is a cavern of a room known as the alchemist’s laboratory. Candles flicker on the walls beneath low ceilings, illuminating the pagan symbols pooling above your head. This den of witchcraft is where Riga’s Black Balsam was originally concocted. A liquor containing over 24 herbs which are stored behind the bar in kiln jars. Try it in their popular Black Mojito, or one of the many chocolate desserts flavoured with Balsam.

7 | Aspra Tea House

Lucky for us, there are a couple of Aspra Teahouses throughout the city. Aspra teahouses incorporate everything that is tea. They not only aim to offer all the variations of tea you can think of, but their cafes are brimming with cosiness. The circular tea house in the park wraps around a spiral staircase, taking you from the warmth of the fireplace below to the balcony floor. Here you can lounge on cushions and futons with your tray of personalised cake and tea while you watch the park. If you love tea and cake, there is nowhere else you should be in Riga.

8 |Folkklubs ALA Pagrabs

When I saw the name of this pub, I was hopeful that I was subconsciously learning Estonian. I thought it said ‘Folk Klub Ala Pubgrub’ (could not be more wrong). In fact, Pagrabs actually translates as cellar. Cellar or basement bars are very popular in Eastern Europe, but this one is particularly good. You can find it hidden underneath Riga’s old town centre, just a 2 minute walk from the House of The Black Heads.

9 | 1221 Restorans

Not only is this the most photogenic restaurant in Riga, but it also serves the best Latvian cuisine in the city. It’s definitely not the cheapest dining experience in the capital, but the food is fantastic, the decor is from another era, and the rooftop terrace has one of the best views of old town.

“Restaurant in Riga” by Michael Bliefert is licensed under CC BY-NC-SA 2.0.

10 | Street Murals & Hipster Neighbourhood

Riga is home to the biggest street mural in the Baltics, measuring 800 square metres, using over 1500 spray cans. You can find it at Tallinas Iela 44. If you love street art, also explore Tallinas Ielas Kvartals. A complex of 16 industrial buildings around an inner communal courtyard. This is the best area to find murals, and doubles as a hipster hangout with bars and cafes. To find the latest murals, check out the Riga Street Art Guide.

Half an hour bus in the opposite direction, is Miera Iela, the other hipster area. The street is lined with boutiques and cafes for you to stroll in and out of as you relax away from the city centre.

TIP… Another great mural is ‘The Lada’ on Krāsotāju iela 18

TIP… Every 3 years in June in Mežaparks, there is a 3D street art festival.

11| Riga’s Wooden District

On the outskirts of the Baltic’s capital cities are the wooden districts often overlooked by tourists. Historically, large wooden districts were built outside the city centre which could be burnt down if enemies attacked. This way, they couldn’t shelter in the abandoned neighbourhoods and lost any advantage. Despite being considered disposable, this is one of the best preserved areas of the city and also one of the most interesting, as during WW2 the district became the Jewish ghetto.

Today you can explore them with Riga’s Moscow District walking tour. I highly recommend not wandering the district alone as a tourist, but if you don’t enjoy walking tours, then consider exploring Agenskalns district instead which is safer for tourists. Or better yet, the Kalnciema Street Quarter which is a square surrounded by restored wooden buildings turned in to a daily street party area, fairylights permanently strung over the square.

12| Riga’s Alleyways

If you can still find beautiful alleyways tucked down side streets after having seen all a city’s main attractions, you know its a good place.

12|Bastejkalns Park

Bastejkalns Park is the perfect green space on the edge of the old town, where you can get away from the streets. This man made canal weaves its way through the park, banked either side by grassy knolls. During the warmer months you’ll see canal boats floating past. At night, there are tour boats that take you along the river and under its bridges, which are illuminated underneath at night.

Canal boats on Riga Canal, Bastejkalns park by Rafael Vila is licensed under CC BY-NC-ND 2.0.

| Day Trips From Riga

Jurmala Beach Town – 35 minute drive from Riga

Jurmala is a historical resort town known for its wide sandy beach which backs on to a pine forest. It is also known for its traditional wooden houses, of which 414 are protected.

Gutmanis Cave – 1 hour drive from Riga

Gutmanis cave is the largest and highest cave complex in the Baltic countries. But this isn’t what makes it so unique, instead it is the inscriptions carved in to the entrance of the cave, many as old as the 17th Century. The inscriptions are the coats of arms of pilgrims who journeyed to the cave because of the Rose of Turaida, the princess of Latvian mythology.

“Gutmanis cave at Sigulda National Park” by Julian-G. Mehler is licensed under CC BY 2.0.

The Rose of Turaida was lured to the cave by an admirer disguised as her lover, who often met her there. The admirer revealed himself and told her she was now his. Rather than try to escape, the Rose tricked her admirer. She told him that her scarf could protect the wearer from a dagger. She asked him to try it out as she wrapped the scarf around her neck, knowing he would stab her. Realising he had killed her, the admirer hung himself, leaving her body in the cave for her lover to find a few days later.

It’s definitely an overly complicated myth, and I’m not quite sure why it should attract so many pilgrims, but there it is.